Building a gate for your wood fence can be an easy project if you follow the correct process. It can be frustrating if you don’t.

Here, I’m going to walk you step-by-step through the process of building a gate the right way, so it’s easy to build, it looks great, and it will never sag.

This project will take between four and eight hours, depending on your skill level, and should cost around $140 in materials.

Let’s get to it.

Tools needed for the job

• Circular saw
• Miter saw (optional, but nice to have)
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Power drill
• 3/16″ drill bit
• Countersink drill bit (optional, but very nice)
• Impact driver (optional)
• Speed square
• Hammer
• Sawhorses

Required Materials

• 2x4s (need two or three)
• Fence pickets (7-10, depending on how wide your gate is)
• 1/58″ screws
• 4″ screws
• Gate hinges
• Gate latch
• Gate handle

Step #1 – Cut the gate rails and position them on a flat surface

The rails of the gate are the horizontal 2x4s that you will attach the fence pickets to. You will need two rails (a top and bottom rail). Cut both the same size, which is one inch shorter than the narrowest distance between the fence posts where you will be installing the gate.

Once they are cut to length, position them on a flat surface. You can either use the ground or a bench. You’ll want to position them approximately the same distance from each other as the rails on the fence, but this will be determined by the type of hinge you use. If you are using the hinges I’ve linked to above, position the gate rails, so they are three inches closer together than the rails on the fence.

Then, square them up. If you are working on the ground, mark the location of the fence rails. If you are working on a bench, temporarily screw them to the surface so they don’t move for the rest of the process.

Step #2 – Attach the diagonal support

Making sure the rails stay in place, grab another 2×4 and position it over the rails so you can mark where to cut. This will be used as a diagonal brace, which will prevent the gate from sagging.

Once the brace is cut, attach to the rails using four-inch exterior wood screws. You’ll want to predrill the holes in the brace before inserting the screws to avoid splitting the wood. A countersink bit saves time and makes for a better build, but a regular drill bit is just fine.

If you’re working on the ground, you’ll notice the rails want to move. Make sure they don’t move too much, or you’ll have a crooked gate. Working on a bench and screwing the rails in place makes this process a lot easier.

Step #3 – Attach two fence pickets to the hinge side

Now that you have a nice “Z” shape, it’s time to attach a couple of fence pickets to the hinge side of the gate. Line the first picket up so the edge is flush with the rails, and place the second one about 1/8″ away from it. To determine where to place the pickets vertically, you’ll need to measure the fence. Measure from the top of the fence pickets to the center of the bottom rail. Take that measurement and mark a line toward the bottom of the gate pickets, then center that on the bottom rail of the gate. This will help align the rails of the gate with the rails of the fence.

Once positioned, attach the gate pickets using 1-5/8″ exterior wood screws. You’ll use six screws per picket—two in the top rail, two in the diagonal brace, and two in the bottom rail.

Step #4 – Attach the gate hinges

Use a speed square to mark a line across the gate pickets you just installed at the center of the top and bottom rails. This line will be your guide for attaching the gate hinges.

Position the hinges so the center of the pivot point is just hanging off the edge of the fence. Then, mark the hole with a pencil, use a 3/16″ drill be to predrill some holes in the gate, and then use the lag screws to hold the hinges to the gate.

Step #5 – Attach the latch support

At this point, the gate is a rigid structure and doesn’t need any more support to avoid sagging. However, it does need some support for the gate latch. So, attach one more 2×4 to the latch side of the gate as shown in the image above. Position this so it is about one inch in from the edge of the rails. Attach with four-inch screws.

Now the gate is ready to hang on the fence. We’ll attach the rest of the pickets once the gate is hanging because it’s way easier that way.

Step #6 – Hang the gate on the fence post

Position the gate so that the top of the gate pickets line up with the top of the fence pickets.

If the gate is sitting up too high, dig a trench below the gate so it can sit lower. If you can’t dig a trench, then cut the bottom of the gate so it can be positioned correctly.

If the gate is sitting too low, use some shims to hold it up.

Butt the hinge side of the gate right up to the post it will be mounted to. There’s no need to leave a gap. Then, attach the gate with the lag screws provided. It’s recommended to only use one screw per hinge for now. We’ll add the other lag screws after the rest of the pickets are installed.

Check to see if the gate fits properly. There should be a gap of about one inch between the rails and the fence post on the latch side of the gate, and the rails of the gate should be approximately lined up with the rails on the fence.

Step #7 – Attach the rest of the fence pickets to the gate

If everything looks good, attach the rest of the fence pickets using the 1-5/8″ exterior wood screws. It’s usually best to just use one screw in the top rail and one in the bottom, for now, to hold the pickets in place. Don’t add the rest of the screws because you may need to move or adjust the pickets later, and you don’t want to have to unscrew a hundred screws.

The last gate board will probably need to be cut to fit. This is normal. Use a circular saw or table saw to cut the board to size so there is about a 1/2 inch gap between the last gate picket and the first fence picket.

Step #8 – Cut the bottom of the gate to fit

In most cases, you’ll need to cut the bottom of the fence so it has some clearance above the ground and can be operated easily. So, with the gate installed and in the closed position, mark a line about 1″ above the ground level. Then, remove the gate and use a circular saw to cut along the line. This will give you a nice straight line at the bottom of the gate.

Step #9 – Install the gate latch

Install the gate latch about 2/3 of the way up the fence. You can mount it lower or higher if you want as well, but 2/3 is typical. The gate latch comes with the lag screws to attach it. Make sure to predrill the holes with a 3/16″ drill bit to avoid splitting the wood while inserting the lag screws.

Start by installing the latching mechanism first, then attach the latch to the gate. If you’re unsure how to do this, I highly recommend watching the video at the top of this page.

Step #10 – Install the gate handle

And finally, install a gate handle to make opening your new gate easy. You can put one on the other side as well. Positioning the handle as I show in the picture makes it easy to open the gate with one hand with one simple motion.

And that’s it! Enjoy your new gate!

What is the best kind of wood to use for a wood gate?

My first choice is Redwood. Redwood is a great material for building fences because it stands up against the weather well, materials are readily available, and it doesn’t tend to warp as it dries. It also looks great and doesn’t require any sealer.

Cedar is the next best choice. Cedar is less expensive than Redwood. It’s also easy to source and holds up against the weather. However, it tends to warp as it dries and it doesn’t look quite as good as Redoowd unless you apply a sealer to it.

So, use either Cedar or Redwood in most situations.

What is the best place to buy gate supplies?

Home Depot, Lowes, and other home stores that carry lumber will usually have everything you need to build your gate or fence.

Of course, you can buy some of the materials online, but the lumber will need to be sourced locally.

How long does it take to build a wood fence gate?

If you follow the process I’ve outlined above, it should take you anywhere between four and eight hours, including time at the store. If you are skilled at carpentry, four hours is a good estimate. If this is your first time, expect it to take you the full day.

How much does it cost to build a gate?

If you are building the gate from scratch using the materials I’ve recommended, then you can expect to spend about $125-$160 in material costs.

How can I prevent my gate from sagging?

The key to preventing your gate from sagging is the diagonal brace that you can see in the picture below.

As long as you secure the diagonal brace to the rails using 4-inch screws and then secure the fence pickets to the brace using 1-5/8″ screws, it will create a rigid design that won’t sage. There is no need for special gate brackets (They don’t make the job easier or better in any way, just more expensive).

I don’t recommend using nails to build a gate because they loosen over time and will lead to sagging. Use exterior fence or deck screws.

The post How to build a wood fence gate that won’t sag appeared first on DIY With Dan.

Installing built-in closet shelving is an easy project that will make a big difference to your home.

However, I’ve seen many DIY closet tutorials out there, and most of them are building closet systems that are way too complicated or expensive. A well-organized and functional closet doesn’t need fancy racks or drawers. That stuff is expensive, complicated, and often breaks down the road.

Simply having the right layout with lots of rack space and some well-placed shelving is all most people need to get the best use of their closet. So that’s what I’m going to focus on in this tutorial.

Here’s how to build your custom closet the easy way – that also happens to be highly functional, low-cost, and great looking.

Tools required

• Circular saw
• Miter saw
• Tape measure
• Clamps (x2)
• Table saw (not required but will speed up the cutting process)
• Pencil
• Stud finder
• 4′ level or longer
• 2′ level
• 4″ Paint Roller
• Paintbrush
• Caulking gun
• Brad nailer or power drill (Brad nailer is faster)
• Respirator
• Multi-tool (optional)
• Square

Required Materials

• 3/4 inch thick MDF (comes in 4’x8′ sheets)
• 2-inch long brad nails or wood screws
• 180 or 220 grit sandpaper (doesn’t matter which)
• Oil-based primer (can substitute water-based)
• Water-based paint
• Caulking

Step #1 – Cut the shelves and shelf supports

Once you’ve planned your closet (which I talk about below), the first step is to get some 3/4″ MDF sheets and cut them down into shelves. The depth of those shelves is going to depend on your closet, but I recommend staying between 12″ and 16″.

The fastest way to cut the MDF is to use a table saw, but not everybody has one of those. Another good option is to use a circular saw and a straight edge.

To get straight cuts with your circular saw, use a straight edge (which needs to be at least 8′ long) or another straight piece of wood. Then clamp that to the table to use as a guide as you cut with the circular saw. The video above demonstrates this much better than I could explain.

You’ll want to cut shelves and shelf supports. You’ll also want to cut out any vertical dividers you may be building into your closet. The best way to do this efficiently is to plan and draw out your closet before making any cuts and then create a detailed cut list that tells you exactly what to cut.

Start by cutting the biggest pieces first (such as long shelves), and then use what you have leftover to cut the smaller pieces like shelf supports.

Step #2 – Sand the shelves

Since MDF is smooth and consistent, you only need to sand corners that you’d like to round off. I usually sand the front edge of the shelves on both the top and the bottom, so there are no sharp corners on the shelves. Sharp corners are more likely to chip and get damaged with use, so rounding the corners makes the shelves a bit more durable. Plus, it just looks better.

To sand the shelves, use 180 or 220 grit sandpaper. It doesn’t really matter what grit you use since you are just doing a quick pass on the edges of the shelves to take off the corner.

Step #3 – Paint the shelves

The fastest method for painting the shelves is installing the shelves first and then using a paint sprayer to paint them after installation. However, there are two downsides to this approach. First, it requires you have the appropriate paint sprayer. Second, the more you paint inside, the more fumes you and your family have to breathe in.

So, if you opt to paint the shelves by hand (like I did in the video above), now is the time to do that.

The best way to paint MDF is to use one coat of oil-based primer and then two coats of paint. It’s important to use an oil-based primer because the moisture in the water-based primer will cause the MDF fibers to rise and create a rough surface. Once you “seal” the surface of the MDF with a coat of oil-based primer, it’s OK to use water-based paint to finish it.

Also, if you don’t like working with oil-based paints (like me), you can use a water-based primer as well. You’ll need to lightly sand the surface of the MDF between coats of primer and paint to knock off the fibers that raise due to moisture getting into the MDF.

Step #4 – Prepare for built-in shelf installation

While the paint is drying on the shelves, now is a good time to get ready to install your closet shelves.

First, patch any holes in the wall that you may have from removing the old shelves. If you want to paint the closet walls, this is a good time to do that.

Once the walls are ready for shelves, take a 4′ level and draw horizontal lines where you want to put your shelves. You will use these lines as a guide while installing the shelves.

Next, take a stud finder and locate each stud location where you will be mounting your shelves. This is important because you want to be nailing or screwing into solid studs while mounting your shelves. So, find the center of each stud, then take your 4′ level and use it to draw vertical lines that cross the horizontal lines you drew earlier. This will indicate where to put the screws or nails for each stud.

If you have any vertical dividers of MDF to install, make sure to mark where those will be located as well.

For more details on how to locate studs, read this article on mounting a TV.

Step #5 – Nail or screw the shelf supports to the walls

Now that you know exactly where to put the shelves and the location of the studs, it’s now as simple as nailing the shelf supports that you cut earlier to the wall while using the horizontal lines you drew earlier as a guide. You’ll also want to install any vertical boards (used as separators) at this point as well.

If you’re using a brad nailer, nail two or three 2″ long brad nails per stud location to secure the shelf supports to the wall. If you’re using screws, use a single 2″ long screw per stud location.

The supports should run the entire length of the shelves and also support the sides of the shelves. If your shelves are longer than 36″, or if they don’t butt up against a wall or vertical board, then you’ll need to install shelf brackets as well to hold up the shelves. I recommend watching the video above to get a better idea of what I mean.

Step #6 – Hang the closet shelves

Now that you have the supports secured to the wall, now it’s just a matter of grabbing the pre-cut shelves and placing them on the supports. If you did a good job measuring, this will go quickly. But most likely, you’ll have to make a few small cuts to get everything fitting just right. Use a circular saw to make those small adjustments.

Once everything fits nicely, grab your brad nailer and tack the backs of the shelves down to the shelf supports, using one nail or screw every ten to twelve inches. All this is doing is holding the shelf in place so it doesn’t get pulled off.

If you want, you can call the project finished right here. But if you want your installation to look just a bit better, continue to the next step.

Step #7 – Caulk and paint the shelves (optional)

Take a caulking gun and some cheap caulking and caulk every gap and nail hole. Everywhere one board meets another or where a board meets the wall. Run your finger along each area you caulk (while wearing gloves, of course) to create a smooth caulked corner.

Once the caulking dries, go back and paint over the caulking. And that’s it!

Now you get to enjoy the extra storage and convenience of a neatly designed closet!

Tips for planning and designing your custom built-in closet shelving

The design of your closet will make a big difference in how functional your closet ends up being. Obviously, the last thing you want to do is go through all of this labor, only to regret where you put things. So here, I’ll talk about how to design your custom closet, so it fits your needs.

Tip #1 – Figure out how much rack space you need, then install shelving everywhere else.

Most closets will need some rack space to hang clothes in. So, before planning your closet, figure out how many linear feet of rack space you need or want. This will give you a good starting point to design the rest of your closet.

Stacking multiple levels of rack space tends to be the most efficient use of space but may not work for shorter people who can’t reach the top rack.

If you stack your rack space, make sure you can still hang your longer garments without them dragging on the floor or messing with your rack space below.

Once you figure out how much rack space you need, your next goal is to fit as much shelving and storage as possible with the remaining space.

Tip #2 – Leave space for larger items such as laundry hampers and shoe racks.

Not everything will fit neatly on a 12″ shelf, so it’s important to really think through what you will be storing. I recommend going into your existing closet and just sitting in there for a minute while evaluating everything. Ten or fifteen minutes just thinking and visualizing can make a huge difference to the usability of the final product.

It’s often best to leave some extra space between the floor and the bottom shelf on any wall for bigger items.

Tip #3 – Draw a diagram of your closet

To effectively design anything complicated, it’s always best to do it on paper first. If you have some software to design your closet with, great. But if not, a few pieces of paper, a straight edge, and a pencil will work just fine.

To create a diagram that is to scale, I recommend the following scale: 1inch:1mm. So, measure the walls and write down your measurements in inches. Then, while drawing your diagram, pretend that one inch = one millimeter. That means that an 8′ tall closet (which is 96″) will only be about 4 inches on your drawing (96mm) – the perfect size for a 11×8.5 piece of paper.

Tip #4 – Create a detailed cut list

Before going out to buy materials, you’ll want to figure out how much MDF you will need. The best way to do that is to create a detailed cut list from the diagram you drew so you know the size and quantity of MDF pieces.

To figure out how much MDF you need, calculate the total area of MDF for each piece on your cut list. The calculate the area, just multiple the height by the width. So a shelve that is 12″ deep and 60″ long would have an area of 12×60 = 720 square inches. You can then divide the number you get in square inches by 144 to get square feet, so 720 square inches = 5 square feet (720/144=5). A 4’x8′ sheet of MDF is 32 square feet. Calculating the area will give you a rough idea of how many sheets of MDF to buy, but it is not an exact science. How many sheets you need will also depend on how long your shelves are and how efficiently you cut them out of the MDF.

Key dimensions when designing your built-in closet shelves

You can build your closet however you want. That’s the benefit of a custom closet, after all. However, here are a few dimensions that will help you get started.

Here are the dimensions I used for this project. As you can see, I left a little more room on the bottom rack for taller garments.

Here are the dimensions for mounting the closet rods below.

Here’s a picture of a kid’s closet with 15″ deep shelving. However, the top shelf is only 9″ deep to allow room to squeeze stuff up there. 15″ deep shelves are great for most bins and larger items.

Comments and Questions

Have a question or want to share a tip for others about built-in closet shelving? Leave a comment below. I’d love to hear from you.

The post Built-in closet shelving the easy way (step by step tutorial) appeared first on DIY With Dan.

There are three main things you need to consider when choosing a TV wall mount.

1. What style of mount do you need?
2. Do the VESA Dimensions of your TV match the mount?
3. Can the mount support the weight of your TV?

There are hundreds of TV wall mounts to choose from, and choosing the right one will make it easier to install and improve your TV watching experience.

So in this article, I’m going to talk more in depth about each of the three things I mentioned above. I’ll also cover a few more considerations and some tips for saving money.

If you just want to see which TV wall mounts I recommend, scroll to the bottom.

Let’s get started…

#1 – Which Style of TV Wall Mount Is Best for Your Situation?

There are four main TV wall mount styles:

1. Flat Mounts – The simplest type of mount. These mounts attach your TV flat to the wall.
2. Tilt Mounts – These are similar to flat mounts except they give you the ability to tilt your TV down. They are good for when you mount your TV high on the wall.
3. Articulating Mounts – These are TV wall mounts that include an articulating arm. They allow you to pull the TV away from the wall, rotate it side to size, swing it side to side, and often give you the ability to tilt up and down as well. They are usually the most expensive.
4. Pull-down Mounts – These are designed for mounting your TV high on the wall above a fireplace. They give you the ability to pull the TV down and out for viewing and then move it back up so it sits neatly against the wall.

In most cases all you need is a tilt mount or a flat mount. These are the lowest cost options and the easiest to install. You can pick one up for at little as twenty bucks.

However, in some cases you might need additional functionality.

If you are mounting the TV high on the wall above a fireplace, then you might consider a pull-down mount so you can pull the TV down to have a better viewing angle. These are pretty unusual though, since most people go with a tilt-mount above the fireplace and just deal with looking up at it.

Articulating mounts are another common mount option that is sometimes required. Here are some scenarios that may require an articulating mount:

• If you are mounting your TV in a corner.
• If you are mounting your TV in a recessed section of the wall or in a cabinet and you want the TV to set further away from the wall.
• If you need to access the connections behind the TV often.
• If you need to rotate your TV side to side for a better viewing angle or so you can watch your TV from different sides of a room at different times.

Unless there is a clear reason to get an articulating mount or a pull-down mount, I recommend going with a tilt mount or a flat mount because they are less expensive, easier to install, and use less materials.

#2 – Do the VESA dimensions of your TV match the mount?

All modern TV’s have four screw holes on the back of the TV that are designed to connect to wall mount brackets.

The VESA dimensions include two dimensions: the horizontal distance between the screw holes and the vertical distance between the screw holes.

VESA dimensions are measured in millimeters.

To find the VESA dimensions for your TV just do a quick google search that includes your TV model number and the phrase “VESA dimensions.” Or, measure the distance between the mounting screw holes on the back of your TV with a tape measure.

Once you know the VESA dimensions of your TV, you can select a mount. TV wall mounts typically fit a wide range of VESA dimensions, so all you need to do is make sure your TV is within that range.

This is all pretty standardized and most TV wall mounts will likely work with your TV, but it’s always worth double checking.

#3 – Can the mount support the weight of your TV?

All TV wall mounts have a weight rating. So simply find out how much your TV weighs and check it against the weight rating of the mount.

Most newer TV’s are relatively light and this won’t be a problem. But if you’re mounting an older TV or a larger TV it’s likely much heavier and you’ll want to pay special attention here.

The weight of the TV is especially important when using an articulating or pull-down mount, since these are required to deal with larger forces.

If you’ve found a TV Wall Mount that checks all these boxes, go ahead and pick it up!

Where should you buy your TV Wall Mount?

You could just go to a local Home Depot, Best Buy, Walmart, or Target to pick up a mount if you need one today.

However, TV wall mounts are far less expensive when you buy them online. For example, a typical tilt mount at Best Buy will run you about $100, but you can find one that will work just fine for $25 on Amazon.

If you just need a flat mount, then I recommend just picking this one up right here.

Other Things to Consider When Choosing a TV Wall Mount In Case You are a Perfectionist

Just in case you want to be really sure you get the absolute best possible TV wall mount for your situation, here are a few more things to consider…

#1 – Do you need a low-profile TV wall mount?

If your TV sticks out too far from the wall, it can look really bad. It will often allow you to see behind the TV and all of the wires.

So in many cases it will look a lot better if you get a low profile TV wall mount.

In general, flat TV wall mounts have the lowest profile. Tilt mounts stick out a bit further, and articulating mounts stick out even further because there has to be room for the articulating arm to collapse.

And of course, even between different manufactures, certain tilt mounts will stick out further from the walls than others.

So, if you think this is important for your installation then be sure to find a low-profile TV wall mount.

#2 – Are you going to be installing your TV yourself?

Some TV wall mounts give you the ability to adjust how level the TV is after you install it. This is especially helpful if you aren’t super handy and will be mounting it yourself (which I show you how to do in this step by step video).

The cheaper TV wall mounts don’t give you that ability so you’ll have to mount it perfectly level or deal with a crooked TV. It’s not that hard to get it level, and again, I show you how to do it in that video I linked to above.

#3 – Are you mounting the TV to a recesses section in the wall or inside of a cabinet?

In some cases you will be mounting your TV in a mounted cubby in the wall or a cabinet and you’ll want it to set away from the wall so the TV is flat with the front of the cabinet or wall.

In this case, you’ll want to get an articulating wall mount with a long reach. Make sure it is at least as long as you need it to be so it sits out far enough.

Recommended TV Wall Mounts (with links)

Here are the mounts I recommend for each category with links to each.

The links below are affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you click on them and buy (which I really appreciate). This does not cost you anything additional and it allows me to put out more free information like this.

• Basic Flat mount
• Flat mount with built in leveling
• Super low-profile flat mount
• Basic Tilt Mount
• Tilt mount with built in leveling
• Articulating Mount
• Pull-down Mount

The post The Quick Buyers Guide For Choosing a TV Wall Mount appeared first on DIY With Dan.

Wall mounting a tv is an easy project that just about anyone can handle. As long as you have a drill, a few basic hand tools, and the ability to follow directions, you can do this.

A pro can mount a tv to the wall in about thirty minutes. But if this is your first time, expect it to take you about an hour. Maybe more, maybe less depending on your skill level and where you are mounting your TV.

The links below are affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you click on them and buy (which I really appreciate). This does not cost you anything additional and it allows me to put out more free information like this.

You’ll need the following tools…

• Power drill
• Tape Measure
• Phillips Head Screw driver
• 3/16″ or 7/32″ metal or wood drill bits (it’s best to have a full set)
• 24″ level
• Pencil
• Stud finder
• Socket Set (comes with a socket wrench and socket adapter)

Optional tools to speed up the job…

• Socket adapter for power drill
• Impact driver (not recommended unless you do a lot of DIY projects)

Step #1 – Choose a TV Wall Mount

Go here for an in depth guide on selecting the right TV wall mount for your situation.

Step #2 – Unbox the TV Wall Mount and TV

This is an obvious step, but regardless, it needs to be done. So do it.

Sometimes the TV wall mount will require some assembly. Just follow the directions that came with it and assemble it if necessary. Should take about five minutes.

Step #3 – Attach the wall mount brackets to the TV

Your TV wall mount comes with several components: A part that mounts to the wall, one or two parts that mount to the back of the TV, and a bunch of screws and washers of different sizes (most of which you won’t use).

Find the part(s) that mount to the back of the TV, then find the screws that fit your TV. On the back of pretty much every TV manufactured in the last fifteen years there are four screw holes. These are designed to attach a mount. Find the screws that came with your TV wall mount that fit in those screw holes and attach the brackets to the back of the TV.

Again, your TV wall mount will come with directions. Don’t be above reading the directions or try to save time by skipping them. That will usually just cause you to make mistakes and have to read them anyway. I’ve mounted hundred of TV’s and whenever I use a new mount I always read the directions.

Step #4 – Temporarily attach the wall part of the bracket to the TV.

Now, take the part of the TV wall mount that mounts to the wall, and attach that part to the brackets you just mounted to the TV.

NOTE: This is only temporary so you can get a critical measurement.

Step #5 – Measure from the bottom of the TV to the top screw hole on the bracket.

Now that the entire wall mount bracket is attached to the TV and the TV is setting on the ground, measure from the ground to the center of the top screw hole on the part of the bracket that attaches to the wall. Read that last sentence slowly.

Write down the measurement for future reference and then detach the wall portion of the mount from the TV.

If this is confusing to you, watch the video above. It will clear things right up.

Step #6 – Determine where to mount the bracket to the wall.

This is where people mess things up, so take your time here. First, find where you want the TV to sit side to side. Usually you will center it on the wall or over a piece of furniture or something. To do that, find the center of where you want the TV to sit and mark a line with your pencil.

Now, figure out how high you want the TV to be mounted. If you’re mounting over a cabinet or shelf, you’ll usually just mount it about 4-6″ above that feature. Consider where you will be sitting when watching the TV. Many people will mount the TV way too high which makes it uncomfortable to watch.

Once you figure out about how high you want the TV to sit, mark a line on the wall where you want the bottom of the TV to line up.

Now you should have two lines. One that marks the center and one that marks the bottom. And you have a measurement written down from step #5.

What you ultimately want, however, is to know where to attach the screws. So, take the measurement from step 5 and measure up from where you want the bottom of the TV to sit and then mark another horizontal line on the wall. This horizontal line will tell you how high to screw in the screws. We’ll call it the screw line.

Then, using a level, translate the centerline you marked earlier so that it crosses the screw line and makes a cross.

Now you should have a cross on the wall that indicates the center of the tv and the screw line. Good work.

Step #7 – Find the Studs

Studs are the wood beams that run vertically in the wall and serve as the structure of your home. They are usually 2×4’s or 2×6’s. And, they are what you will want to screw into.

Take your stud finder and use it to locate the studs. You’ll want to find two or three studs that are closest to your center mark.

Pro tip: Instead of just marking the center of each stud, mark both edges of each stud. Again, watch the video above if you are confused.

Step #8 – Pre-drill for the Lag Screws

Grab your level and line it up with the screw line. Then, get your level perfectly level and use it to mark lines that cross each stud location. Again, these lines are there so you know exactly where to drill.

Once you have that lines drawn and you know where you want to screw in, hold up the wall mount bracket to make sure everything lines up and you can in fact screw right there.

If everything is ok, carefully pre-drill a hole on each stud at the marked locations in the center of each stud using a 3/16″ wood or metal drill bit.

You should now have two holes in the wall that are drilled into the center of two different studs.

Step #9 – Attach the Wall Mount Bracket to the Wall

Use the lag screws to attach the wall part of the bracket to the wall. Before tightening the screws all the way, make sure the bracket is perfectly level. Also, make sure to use the washers that are meant to be used with the lag screws.

Once the top two screws are tightened down and the bracket is level, attach the bottom lack screws to lock in the bottom of the bracket. You’ll probably want to pre-drill again before doing this because sometimes the lag screws can break in a stud.

Step #10 – Hang up the TV!

Now that you have one part of the bracket attached to the TV and the other part attached to the wall, all you have to do is pick up the TV and hang it on the wall. For larger TV’s you’ll want to grab a friend to help you.

That’s it! Now, it’s time to work on hiding the wires. There are multiple ways to do this which I’ll discuss in the future tutorial.

Mounting to Other Surfaces

What if you are mounting to brick or metal studs?

If you are mounting to metal studs, check out my other tutorial here.

If you are mounting to brick or stone, then you will use the same exact process, but you will need to have the appropriate sized mason drill bit and some stone anchors. Most TV wall mounts come with stone anchors (they look like large drywall anchors).

The post How To Wall Mount a TV Perfectly Every Time appeared first on DIY With Dan.

Here’s What I Cover…

First, I provide a quick overview of what essential components need to be included in a quality tile shower install. Then, I’ll talk about different methods for waterproofing a shower and which one I recommend using. And finally, I’ll walk you step by step through installing tile in this shower, so you can see exactly how it’s done from start to finish – with plenty of practical and useful tips along the way that will save you time and money.

Tile Shower Basic Construction and Essential Components

Let’s talk about the construction of a tile shower so you can have an understanding of what goes into this process.

In the diagram above, a cross-section of a tiled shower wall, you’ll see the tile components and how they interface with each other. First, you have the studs, which are typically spaced 16″ apart and provide the structure for the wall. Then, you have some sort of wall sheeting which can be drywall, cement board, or a tile-specific board such as Kerdi-Board by Schluter Systems. The wall sheeting will be attached to the studs with screws. Then, on top of the wall sheeting, you want to have a waterproof membrane of some kind. Next is the thinset, which is essentially a type of concrete designed to attach the tile to the wall. Finally, you have the grout between the tiles and silicon caulking between the tub and the tile. Notice that there is NO vapor barrier. A vapor barrier is not a legitimate way to waterproof and shower. And that brings up a common question which is…

What is the best way to waterproof a shower?

As you may already know, there are lots of different methods. I’m not going to get into the pros and cons of each method because that would take forever. Instead, I’m just going to tell you which one I think is best for a DIYer or pro, and that is the Kerdi system by Schluter. With this system, the waterproofing is actually built into the wallboards that you install. There are some other things you need to do to make it completely waterproof, however. So why do I think this is the best system?

• It’s lightweight and easy to cut.
• There are no fumes or strong odors to deal with.
• It’s very high quality and will last a lifetime if installed properly. In fact, Schluter even offers a lifetime warranty that covers labor and materials.
• They have many online videos and resources to answer your questions and help you do the job right.

Of course, there is one downside – it’s expensive. A typical 3 x 5” shower will cost between $500 and $600 for the Schluter system. For some people, that’s too much, and they want a cheaper option.

Now, there are other cheaper options. If you’re looking to save some money, using RedGard to seal your shower is another good option for DIYers. RedGard is a waterproof barrier that you actually paint over cement board. This will save you significant money, but there are two downsides here. The first one is that you have to work with cement board which can be heavy, awkward, and dusty to cut. The second downside is that Redgard has a very strong odor, and it has been known to bother some people who are sensitive to chemicals or have asthma. Again, I recommend the Schluter system because even though it is more expensive, it will save you a lot of time, and time is money. It’s also just going to be more enjoyable to work with and will likely lead to a higher quality installation. So, that is the method I’ll be demonstrating in the video above and in this article. However, if you decide to use Redgard or another method, most of the tile installation process that I cover will still be the same. Alright, let’s jump right into how to install a tile shower, step by step.

Installing Tile In A Shower Step By Step

Step #1 – Demo the old shower

Now before you come swinging with a sledgehammer, I recommend locating all of the studs if you can, especially on the sidewalls, which will transition from tile to drywall. By being mindful here, you can actually save yourself considerable time because you can eliminate the need for drywall repairs later. You don’t need to turn off the water to the house for this step as long as you avoid damaging the plumbing and leave the shower valve closed. Do whatever you have to do to remove the old shower while avoiding damaging anything you want to keep in the new shower installation. A pry bar and rubber mallet are nice tools to have for this. To remove the bathtub, you’ll need to remove the 2×4 stud on the side opposite of the drain so you can lift it out at an angle. Go here for full details on how to remove and replace a bathtub. The demo is a quick step and will only take a couple of hours.

Step #2 – Flatten and Plumb The Walls

For your tile shower to look good, the walls need to be flat and plumb (perfectly vertical). Otherwise, your tiles will be wavy and uneven. So the next step is to make sure the walls are flat and plumb and, if not, adjust as needed. To do this, grab a very straight board or flat edge long enough to span each wall. Then, place the flat edge against each wall horizontally to check for high or low spots in the wall. Mark a plus sign wherever there is a gap between the board and the stud so you know where you’ll need to shim the wall out. If you find a high spot sticking out past the rest of the wall, draw a minus sign indicating that you need to shave that spot down. Then get a long straight edge, ideally at least 6’ long, and do the same thing vertically, marking high and low spots. You’ll also want to take a level to the wall to make sure each wall is plumb – or perfectly vertical. If your walls are uneven or out of plumb, you will really notice it once you install the tile, especially in the corners where two walls meet. This is an important step because you’re basically setting the foundation for the tile install. Once you’ve marked the walls, it’s time to flatten them out. Use a planer to remove the high spots that you marked. Then check for flatness again and keep going until you have as close to a perfectly flat wall as you can get. You could use a belt sander here, but a planer will be about ten times as fast. Removing high spots is actually the easy part. Shimming out low spots is a little more time-consuming. If you find that a stud is sunk back into the wall, there are several ways to fix it. One way to do it is to sister another 2×4 against the stud that is sitting back to bring it out a bit. Another way is to simply add shims. The only caveat here is that you must place the shims exactly where the screws will be placed to install the Kerdi-Board – otherwise, when you screw in the Kerdi-Board, it will just bend, and your wall won’t be flat. You can figure out where the screws will go by measuring from the top of the tub and then marking every 12” from there. Take your time and get the walls as flat and plumb as your patience will allow because this will have a major impact on how professional your job looks when completed.

Step #3 – Bathtub and Plumbing Installation

Now it’s time to move onto the plumbing. Since you have the walls removed, this is the perfect time to replace old, low-quality shower valves or simply raise the height of the showerhead, so you don’t have to duck down just to get your hair wet. If you’re confident in your DIY plumbing abilities, then this is a project you can handle. If you’re not, then hiring a plumber is a good idea. This is a time-consuming process that requires a lot of careful thought to make sure everything lines up, so give it the time and attention it deserves and don’t rush. Once you’ve finished the plumbing for the shower fixtures, it’s time to install the bathtub. The key here is to make sure the bathtub is level and supported well along the entire base. Otherwise, it could crack or move around on you while you’re standing it in. Since this isn’t something you can just fix later, you’ll want to do it right the first time. For more details, watch my complete step-by-step video on how to replace a bathtub.

Step 4: Install The Wall Sheeting (Kerdi-Board)

Once the plumbing is all done, it’s time to install the wall sheeting, a product called Kerdi-Board. This will serve as both a waterproof barrier and a rigid backing for the tile to adhere to. Schluter, the manufacturer of Kerdi-Board, makes Kerdi-Board in a variety of different thicknesses anywhere from 3/16” up to 2” thick. For most tile installations, you will use the 1/2″ thick Kerdi-Board because that will match the drywall’s thickness, which is important because you are often butting it up to the drywall, and you want to avoid any steps in the wall. Some houses have drywall that is 5/8″ thick, so make sure to check the thickness of your drywall before ordering your Kerdi-Board. Installing the Kerdi-Board is actually pretty easy. You basically measure walls, cut the Kerdi-Board to size using a razor knife and a straight edge, and then screw the Kerdi-Board to the walls using the special screws and washers designed to be used with this product. You’ll want to install screws on each stud, with the screws spaced 12” apart vertically. Tighten the screws enough so that the washer begins to compress the Kerdi-Board just to the point where it is no longer sticking above the surface. I recommend starting at the bottom of the largest wall first and working upward. Then move on to the side walls. Install the Kerdi-Board on all surfaces that you plan to tile, including any windows or custom niches, and even on the side of the tub because that tends to see a lot of moisture, and you want it to be waterproof to avoid rot and mold. When installing Kerdi-Board around the bathtub, you want it to sit on top of the tub flange and not overlap it. If you try to overlap it, the wall will bow out at the bottom and look terrible. You’ll come back and seal this up later. When installing the Kerdi-Board on the shower valve wall, you first want to cut the board to fit. Then, go back and measure the location of the fixtures by measuring both from the top of the tub to the center of the fixture and the wall to the center of the fixture. Take your time here and measure carefully because this Kerdi-Board isn’t cheap. Don’t worry about making the holes perfect. We will go back and seal them up later. Now here are just a couple of tips before I move on.

• If tiling around a window or custom niche, you want to ensure that all of the surfaces around the window are perfectly level and plumb and that the cutout is perfectly square. The chances are that your windows aren’t perfect as is, so to fix this, use some thin-set (which is the same stuff you’ll use to install the tile) and use it as a leveling compound behind the Kerdi-Board.
• The ledge of the window or custom niche should be angled slightly so that when water gets on that surface, it naturally flows down into the shower instead of puddling up. This is the only exception to making everything plumb and level.
• Schluter makes pre-made custom niche cutouts. I highly recommend using those if you can because they will save you a lot of time during installation.

Step 5: Waterproofing The Shower with Kerdi-Band

Now that the Kerdi-Board has been installed, it’s time to make the shower waterproof so you can eliminate any chance of water getting behind the walls and causing rot, mold, and all that other nasty stuff that nobody wants. To do this, you’re going to use several other Schluter products that are designed to work with this system. You’ll use Kerdi-Band to seal the corners, the screws, and the joints where Kerdi-Boards meet other surfaces. You’ll use some Kerdi-Fix, a high-quality sealant, and various seals to seal around the plumbing fixtures to create a perfect, high-quality, waterproof barrier that will give you peace of mind for years to come. We’ll start with the hardest part first – which is sealing around the tub where it meets the Kerdi-Board. Start by mixing some thinset to a thin consistency. Then, cut a piece of Kerdi-Band to size to span from the corner to beyond the end of the tub. Next, apply a liberal amount of Kerdi-Fix to the tub flange. Then, apply some thinset to the Kerdi-Board using a 1/8” v-notch trowel as recommended by Schluter. Place the Kerdi-band over the seam, and then use a putty knife to flatten the Kerdi-Band and remove excess thinset and sealant. Your goal here is to create a flat waterproof surface for the tile to be installed all the way around the tub. Next, install the Kerdi-Band in the corners and where the Kerdi-Board meets the drywall. You may need to patch some drywall and let it dry before doing this. Then install the Kerdi-Band on all of the corners and edges of windows and custom niches. And finally, install the Kerdi-Band over all of the screws you used to secure the Kerdi-Board. Basically, anywhere there is a gap, seam, or hole, you’ll cover it with Kerdi-Band. You don’t need to worry about where the walls meet the ceiling unless you install a steam shower. If you are installing a steam shower, then you’ll need to waterproof the ceiling as well. To apply the Kerdi-Band, you’ll need a 1/8” v-notch trowel to apply the thinset, which you can buy directly from Schluter. And you’ll want to use a drywall taping knife to squeeze out excess thinset from behind the Kerdi-Band to keep it as flat as possible. Just don’t overwork it, or the Kerdi-Band will start to come off. Schluter also makes pieces for sealing the corners, which need to be purchased separately. Schluter also makes seals for around the shower fixtures. You’ll need three different seals for your shower. One for the tub spout, one for the valve, and one for the shower spout, which will be a different size than the tub spout. To apply these, use the same process you used for the Kerdi-Band. Apply thinset with the 1/8” v-notch trowel and then go back over it and remove excess thinset while pressing the seal against the Kerdi-Board. Then, if you have a window, you’ll want to apply some Kerdi-Fix to where the Kerdi-Board meets the window on both the sides of the window and the window sill. As you are working, make sure to remove any high spots if there are any. You want the surface to be as flat as possible and ready for tile. Wiping the entire surface down with a damp sponge is a great way to remove any bumps or chunks of thinset.

Step 6 – Planning The Tile Layout

Before you lay a single tile, it’s important to do some planning so your installation looks like a pro did it and not a complete amateur. Your goal with this step is to figure out a starting point for your tile so the install looks symmetrical and there are not skinny pieces of tile. The first thing you want to figure out is how high to start the first row of tiles so you can install a ledger board. There are two reasons you don’t want to just start on top of the tub. Number one, the top of the tub is rarely going to be perfectly flat. It’s designed so that water runs into the tub, so it usually bows in in the middle. The second reason is that you need to consider how the tile will line up with other features that are further up the wall. You want to figure out the best place to start the tile so that the tiles line up so that you don’t have to install small slivers of tile on any horizontal endpoint such as the bottom or top of the niche, the bottom, and top of the window, the tub, or the ceiling. To do that takes some measuring and, in some cases, a few calculations. The larger the tiles you are using, the easier this process is because there are fewer grout joints. When you are using small tile like subway tile, then you’ll want to be even more careful here. So, the first thing to do is draw up a diagram that has all of the measurements. Measure from the tub to every feature, and then measure each feature and its distances from the walls and mark those dimensions on your diagram. Then, measure the exact dimensions of your tile. If you’re using a small tile like I am here, then you’ll get a more accurate measurement by measuring ten or so of them and then dividing your measurement by ten. If you are using spacers for your grout joints, you will obviously want to include those as well because they will determine the stack height of your tiles which is ultimately what you are trying to figure out. The tiles I’m using have spacers built into the tile, which is why you don’t see me using spacers here. Now that you have all the measurements you need, do some calculating and planning so that you can place your tiles in a way that will avoid having small slivers of tile anywhere in the installation. Once you have figured out a good height for the ledger board, which will be used to support your first rows of tile, use a level to draw a line all the way around the shower walls where the top of the ledger board will be. Then, draw a vertical line in the center of the back wall, again using a level to make it perfectly vertical. You’ll also want to draw vertical lines where the tile will end on the side walls. These lines are important because they will guide you while installing the tile later. Take your time on this planning stage and think through the entire installation before you start laying the tile. It’s going to take some time and mental effort, but it’s going to have a big impact on the quality of your tile shower in the end.

Step 7 – Install The Ledger Board

Once you’ve planned your layout and marked the walls, it’s time to install the ledger board – which is just the board that will support the first row of tiles, so the tile doesn’t slide down the wall. Find a straight board and cut it to the size you need to install it around the tub on all walls. Then, secure it to the walls with screws at the locations of the studs. Be careful to avoid the tub flange with the screws. Don’t worry about the holes you just created. We’ll go back and seal those up with Kerdi-Fix later. The key here is to ensure your ledger board is perfectly level all the way around the tub because this will be what supports the tile.

Step 8 – Start Laying the Tile!

Now you’re finally ready to start laying down some tile! To lay the tile, you’ll need to mix up a batch of thinset, which is pretty straightforward. You just follow the directions on the back of the bag. Once you’ve mixed the thinset, apply it to the walls using a trowel. You’ll want to use the correct sized trowel for the tile you are using. The bigger the tile, the bigger the notch you want on your trowel. For subway tile, you want to use a 1/4” square notch trowel – which means there are 1/4” squares cut out of it. You’ll need a larger trowel if you are using larger tiles. Since you only have a limited time before the thinset begins to harden, you only want to spread it over a small section at a time, so it remains tacky as you cut and install the tile. When spreading the thinset, be sure to leave the guidelines uncovered, so you know where to place the tiles. If you have a laser, then you can use that instead. Once you have thinset spread on the walls, go back and run the trowel vertically so that your trowel lines are parallel to each other and go up the wall. You want these to be as consistent as possible with no bare spots to ensure proper adhesion of the tile. Once you’ve applied thinset to a section, start in the center and place each tile carefully, pressing each tile into the wall and wiggling it back a forth to ensure a consistent bond with the wall. Work your way out toward the corners where you want to leave a small gap of about 1/8” between the tile and the corner.

To cut the tiles, you can use several tools. A manual tile cutter is a great tool to have in the bathroom with you to make quick straight cuts. A wet table saw is great to make very clean, consistent cuts or cut many tiles to the same size. Here is a video that demonstrates five ways to cut tile. Continue placing the tiles until you complete the section. This is a messy process, so you’ll want to have a bucket and sponge handy to clean up the thinset as you go. Whatever you do, do NOT let the thinset dry on the surface of the tile or in the grout joints because it can ruin your install. Once you’ve completed a section, go back and make adjustments while the thinset is still wet to ensure the row of tiles at the top is still level. Small wedge spacers are great to make adjustments here, but you may use something different based on the tile you are using. Some tiles (like many subway tiles) have spacers built-in. Most tiles do not, and you will need to use tile spacers to create grout joints. Talk to your local tile shop to get the right tile spacers for your specific project. Before moving up further on the back wall, install the tile on the side walls as well. This is important because it will allow you to make small adjustments as you go to keep the grout joints lined up on all three walls.

Continue working your way up the walls, section by section. As you run into different features in your installation, you’ll need to make more intricate cuts. A hole saw with a diamond blade can be used to cut holes, and an angle grinder with a diamond blade is helpful to make intricate or curved cuts. Be extra careful when working around windows or custom niches. These features can be very time-consuming because they require a lot of detailed cuts. Work your way all the way up the walls until you reach your stopping point. Once the thinset has hardened on the first section of tile, you can remove the ledger board. Use some Kerdi-Fix to seal up the holes that were created when attaching the ledger board. When tiling around the tub, you want to leave a 1/8” to 3/16” gap between the tile and tub. The gap will be filled in with silicone later. And by the way, you also want to leave about a 1/8” gap between the tiles in the corners. Installing the tile will probably take longer than you expect, but if you take your time and don’t rush things, you will end up with a better tile installation than most pros.

Step #9 – Grout The Tiles

Once you’re done with the tile, wait at least 24 hours for the thinset to cure, and then it’s time to apply the grout. At this point, most of the hard work is over, and you’re almost done. To get started with the grout, mix a small batch of whichever grout you have chosen for your tile project, following the directions that came with the grout. To apply the grout, you’ll need a float, a bucket with clean water, and a brand new sponge. Wipe the grout on the walls with the float and push the grout into the joints to fill them up completely. Then, go back and wipe off the excess grout with the float and come back with a damp sponge to clean up the grout joints. Do this in sections just like you did the tile, so the grout doesn’t harden on you before you have a chance to clean it off with a sponge. Try to avoid getting grout in the corners and between the tile and the tub. These joints will need to be caulked later.

Step #10 – Caulking The Shower

Once you’re finished grouting, it’s time to caulk the shower. You’ll need three different types of caulking. First, one that is the same color as the grout (which will be made by the same company that made the grout you are using). The second one will be a white silicone that matches the tub for caulking around the tub. And the third is a clear silicone for caulking around the shower fixtures. Caulk all of the inside corners of the tile with the colored caulking. You can also caulk between the ceiling and the tile with the colored caulking as well since that doesn’t need to be waterproof up there. Then, caulk around the tub with the white silicone. Take your time with this because it will make a big difference in how good your install looks.

Step #11 – Seal the Grout

And finally, the very last step is to seal the grout with a penetrating grout sealer. This is an easy step that will help your grout last longer. Pick up a penetrating sealer such as Sealer’s Choice Gold and either spray it on the walls or use a sponge brush to apply it. Then install the plumbing fixtures, and you’re all done!

Some Last Thoughts

As you can see, there are many steps involved with a proper tile shower installation, and this is a more advanced DIY project that will use a variety of skills and probably even require you to learn new skills. However, by taking your time and doing it right, you can save a lot of money on labor, and you can experience a feeling of achievement. If you’re relatively new to tile, expect this process to take a couple of weeks once you have all the materials ready. Maybe you will get it done sooner, but I wouldn’t recommend overwhelming yourself by trying to do this all in a single weekend.

The post How to Tile Shower & Bathtub Walls – The Ultimate Guide appeared first on DIY With Dan.

If you’re about to tackle your first DIY tile project, then you’re probably wondering what tools you’ll actually need for the job.

In this article (and the video above), I’m going to talk about five different ways to cut tile so you will quickly learn which tools you actually need and which tools you can forget about.

Whether you are cutting ceramic tile, porcelain tile, glass tile, glass mosaic tile, or even natural stone, I’ll show you exactly which tile cutting tools and methods you’ll want to use (and which ones are a waste of time and money).

Let’s get started…

Tile Cutting Method #1 – Manual Tile Cutters

The first tool I want to mention is the manual tile cutter. This is a very common tile cutting tool and can be used on ceramic, porcelain, glass, and terra cotta tiles.

It basically scores the tile with a small carbine blade and then snaps the tile as demonstrated in the video at the bottom of this article.

This method of cutting tile is fast, easy, and doesn’t create any dust. It’s also an inexpensive tool to buy. The one in the image above cost just $50 and is perfect for ceramic tile up to 24″. However, larger tiles or harder tiles like porcelain will require a heavy duty version.

Porcelain is much harder than ceramic and requires a more robust tile cutter. If you are cutting porcelain and plan to buy or rent one of these tools, then make sure it is rated for cutting porcelain tile.

The manual tile cutter will also work on mosaic and glass mosaic tiles.

The tile cutting method will not work for most natural stone tile, however.

Tile Cutting Method #2 – Wet Table Saw

Wet table saws are staple tile cutting tools. They can cut any kind of tile and they cut a very smooth and straight edge. This is an essential tool for cutting natural stone tile and it will work with pretty much any type of tile except for glass tile.

If you’re doing a ceramic tile project, then this tool isn’t 100% necessary, but it will save you a lot of time and give you cleaner cuts. And, if you are cutting a lot of tiles to the same exact size (like when installing subway tile) this tools can save even more time.

This tool uses a diamond blade circular saw to cut the tile and pumps water onto the blade to eliminate all dust and keep the blade cool. Wet table saws come in variety of different sizes so the bigger the tile you are cutting, the bigger the wet table saw you will want to get.

A small wet table saw like you see above can be rented for about $200 per week and is a worthy investment for the DIY tiler.

Tile Cutting Method #3 – Handheld Manual Tile Cutter

The handheld manual tile cutter scores and snaps the tile just like the manual tile cutter I talked about above. However, it’s much smaller and fits in your hand.

If you look around online, you’ll see all kinds of videos of people using these and claiming how awesome and easy they are to use. However, I found this tool almost useless. That’s because you have to push hard to score the tile which makes it very difficult to cut a straight line. It’s also hard to follow a guide while cutting.

This thing can cut ceramic tile pretty well, but not straight or accurately.

So, do not waste your time or money on one of these tools.

Tile Cutting Method #4 – Angle Grinder With a Diamond Blade

The angle grinder with the diamond blade is such a useful tool. I’ve found thousands of uses for it as a pro handyman. And, it can also be used to cut any kind of tile (everything except glass).

It’s great for making small detailed cuts and circular cuts in tile. However, it does have downsides. It creates a lot of dust and it doesn’t cut a very smooth edge.

This is certainly not an essential tile cutting tools for most projects, but it does make those curved and detailed cuts much easier. But, since this tool is so useful for so many other things, I highly recommend you get one anyway. You can pick up a corded one for $30 and you’ll find dozens of uses for it down the road.

Tile Cutting Method #5 – Diamond Hole Saw

A hole saw with a diamond coating on the edge is great for cutting small holes in almost every type of tile and even granite or cement. Sometime you will have a pipe coming out of the wall right in the middle of where you want to put a tile. Without a hole saw like this those cuts can be very difficult.

These hole saws will cut through ceramic like butter in a matter of a few seconds. However, when cutting harder materials like porcelain or granite, then you’ll want put some water on it while you are cutting to keep the blade cool and to cut faster.

To use one of these, just hook it up to your power drill, put it down where you want to cut your hole and squeeze the trigger. It can be challenging to get the hole started, but once you do it is an easy tool to use.

Tile Cutting Tools By Project

Depending on the type of tile you are cutting, you will need different tools. So, here is a breakdown of the tools you want for each type of tile.

Cutting Ceramic Tile

When cutting ceramic tile you will want a wet table saw, a manual tile utter, a diamond hole saw, and an angle grinder.

You could technically get away with just a manual tile cutter and an angle grinder if you wanted to keep it minimalist. But, the wet table saw wills save you a lot of time and give you cleaner cuts.

Cutting Porcelain Tile

When cutting porcelain tile, use the same tools as you would when cutting ceramic tile except go for a heavier duty manual tile cutter. Depending on the job you are tackling, you may also want to consider a hand held wet table saw, especially if there are a lot of detail cuts.

Cutting Natural Stone Tile

Most natural stone will require a wet saw to cut well. While you can cut this with just an angle grinder, you’ll want to make the majority of your cuts with a wet saw of some kind. A wet table saw is essential here since you can’t score and snap natural stone. It just doesn’t break cleanly enough.

Cutting Glass Tile

Whether you are cutting glass mosaics or glass tile, you’ll always want to score it and snap it. Trying to cut glass with any type of saw will result in lots of chipping and a very rough edge.

Enjoy the video below which demonstrates all five cutting methods as well as provides a lot of extra tips not shared in this article.

The post How to Cut Tile – Tools, Methods, and When to Use Them appeared first on DIY With Dan.

In the video above and the step-by-step article below, you’re going to learn everything you need to know about mixing thinset mortar for tile, from how to mix small batches to how to mix thinset for wall tile. I’ll also mention how much to mix on your first batch.

First, we’ll start with a list of tools and then on to the step-by-step instructions.

Tools and Supplies:

• Five-gallon buckets (x3)
• 1-3 quart plastic measuring containers (x2)
• Mixing Paddle
• Power Drill or Mixer
• Gloves
• Safety Glasses
• Dust Respirator
• Digital Scale (optional)

Step 1: Add Water To the Mixing Bucket

Always add the water before the thinset. Read the back of the thinset bag to see how much water you need for the entire bag. Then, figure out how much thin-set to mix, so you have enough for about twenty square feet of tile to start with for your first time.

The thinset I’m using in the video above said to use 5.5-6.5 quarts of water for the entire 50 lb bag. But that’s way too much thin-set to use at once, so I decided to start with 1 quart of water (about one-fifth of the bag), which is an easily manageable amount.

You never want to mix an entire bag on your first time because the thinset will likely harden before you have time to put it all on. So, start with enough thinset to cover about 20 sq. feet, then adjust from there on your next batch. Usually, it will say on the back of the thinset bag how much sq. footage it will cover given different trowel sizes, so you can calculate how much based on that.

Step 2: Add Thinset And Mix To Desired Consistency

There are two ways to do this. You can measure it out perfectly and even get out a scale to weigh out the perfect amount of thinset to water. This is great because it’s accurate and isn’t prone to user error. But, it requires you to have a scale laying around and do some math to figure out how many pounds of thinset per quart of water.

The second way is to add thinset and mix until you reach the desired consistency (similar to peanut butter). It doesn’t have to be perfect. If it’s a little runny, it will still work. If it’s a little thicker, it can still work as well. You’ll know that it’s too runny if it won’t hold a notch when you trowel it on the wall or floor, and you’ll know it’s too thick if it doesn’t easily stick to the substrate you’re applying it to.

Step 3: Continue Mixing For Time Specified On The Bag

Every thinset is slightly different, so you’ll want to follow the directions on your bag of thinset. Usually, it will tell you to mix for about 2-3 minutes using a power mixer at a slow rpm. If you don’t have a mixer, you can also use a power drill, but you will not want to do this by hand.

A power mixer is a great tool to have here, but it’s not necessary. You can also use a power drill, although this is hard on drills. Just make sure to set your drill to the slower setting, so you don’t mix too fast. If you’re using a variable speed drill with only one setting, then you’ll have to hold the trigger halfway to avoid spinning too fast.

Step 4: Let it Slake for 10 Minutes

Basically, you will leave it alone for about ten minutes so the water can start combining with the thinset and the chemical reactions can start taking place.

I would avoid letting it sit in the sun, though, unless you want the thinset to harden faster than normal and don’t need as much working time to apply it.

Step 5: Mix again for 2-5 Minutes

After the thinset has completed slaking, it will probably thicken up just a bit, but it will thin back up to a workable consistency once you start mixing.

NEVER add water after the slaking period. It can weaken the thinset mortar, so it isn’t as strong once cured. That’s obviously not good because you want your tile to last a long time and be durable. Make sure to dial in the right consistency during the first mixing stage.

Step 6: Application

Now you’re ready to use a trowel to apply the thinset. The working time before it hardens varies depending on a few things. The first is the temperature. The hotter the temperature, the faster the thinset will “set.” Cooler temperatures could easily double working time when compared to hot weather. Also, the amount of thinset you have mixed seems to change the rate that it sets. Smaller amounts tend to set faster because more of it is exposed to direct air relative to the total mass of the thinset. Larger batches will set slightly slower, but I’d still recommend starting with smaller batches until you get the hang of things.

You can increase the working time by remixing the thinset a couple of times while applying it. But this will only get you so far, and you’ll start to notice thinset hardening on your tools. That’s when you’ll want to clean your tools and whip up a new batch.

Obviously, avoid wasting thinset if you can, but understand that some waste is normal during this learning process. As you work with it more, you’ll get faster and more efficient while mixing and applying thinset. 

If you found this helpful, you’ll also enjoy How to tile shower and bathtub walls – The ultimate guide.

The post How To Mix Thinset For Tile in Small Batches to the Perfect Consistency appeared first on DIY With Dan.

I’ve installed a large flagstone patio and a flagstone walkway – which is plenty of time to learn which tools are best for cutting flagstone. So, in this article I’m going to share what I’ve learned.

Flagstone Cutting Method #1 – Angle Grinder

On my first patio I used a four inch angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the flagstone. This got the job done, but once I was finished I vowed to never install flagstone again.

It was terrible. It kicked up a ton of dust, cuts took forever with such a small blade, the angle grinder overheated, and my hand vibrated like crazy the hole time.

So in short…don’t use an angle grinder unless you are only making a couple of cuts!

Flagstone Cutting Method #2…aka The Best Way To Cut Flagstone – Gas Powered Concrete Cutoff Saw

These things are a beast when it comes to cutting flagstone. Since the blade has a much larger diameter, it cuts faster. Cutting speed is a big deal when installing flagstone – which you’ll quickly find out once you start trying to fit flagstone together.

The second reason this type of saw kick complete and total ass is that it has a water feed system on board. Well, at least the good ones do, and I highly recommend you get one with a water feed system. This not only keeps the blade cool and eliminates dust, but it further increases the cutting speed.

Where to Get a Flagstone Cutter (Concrete cutoff saw)

You could buy one, and there are some cheap options available. However, unless you are doing this job professionally, you are wasting your money and probably using an inferior model. So, the best option in 95% of situations is to simply rent one.

I recently rented a concrete saw with a diamond blade and it cost me about $135 which included the rental for the diamond blade. That was only a 24 hour rental however, so you’ll want to either rent over a weekend or be ready to cut before you go pick up your saw.

Other Flagstone Cutting Methods

There are more ways to cut flagstone. Technically, any saw that has a diamond blade on it will work. You can use a hand held tile saw, a wet table saw, or even a standard circular saw. However, the larger the blade you have, the faster you will be able to cut, so stay away from anything with a smaller blade.

In some cases, you can use a hammer and a chisel to cut flagstone. However, this only works with certain types of rock. Not all flagstone is formed from the same type of stone.

Flagstone Cutting Tips

One thing that will make your flagstone installation project go much faster is to lay out all of your flagstone before making a single cut. Or, lay out as much of it as you can. This will allow you to piece everything together more effectively and faster.

Then, once you’re ready to cut you can cut multiple flagstones at a time. This one little tip will easily save you hours of labor.

The post How to Cut Flagstone Fast and With No Dust appeared first on DIY With Dan.

In this tutorial you’re going to learn how to remove your old tile-in kitchen sink and then how to install a new kitchen sink – without replacing any tile or even having to mess with grout.

I had this old beat-up kitchen sink for years, but I never got around to replacing it because I couldn’t find a good way to do it that didn’t require either replacing the countertops or searching for matching tile.

Then one day I decided to solve this problem and ended up discovering a great solution that I’m excited to share with anyone in this same situation.

Here’s what I did…

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, meaning that I am compensated if you click on the links and then make a purchase. This is at no additional cost to you and it helps me continue to create free content like this.

Tools Required

• 4″ Angle Grinder
• Diamond Blade for Angle Grinder
• Reciprocating Saw with fresh wood blades
• Hammer
• Chisel or Flat Metal Tool for chipping away mortar
• Vacuum
• Measuring Tape
• Pencil
• Wrenches for plumbing

Materials Needed

• New Stainless Steel Drop-in Sink
• Silicone Caulking
• Plumbers Putty
• Masking Tape

Step 1 – Find a Replacement Sink

The key to this project is to first find a sink that is big enough so that it covers the hole you are going to create by removing the old sink. But, also make sure your new sink is small enough to fit in your existing cabinets.

Take your time to take the appropriate measurements.

The sink I went with was the Loften Stainless Steel 33 inch Single Bowl Sink by Kraus which also came with a pull down faucet. I picked this baby up at Home Depot for just $350. The reason I like this sink is that it has squared corners and it’s the perfect size. Plus it is a single bowl sink which is the only way to go. You’ll realize how silly a two basin sink is once you have a single basin sink.

NOTE: The width of the opening in my cabinets was technically smaller than the minimum recommendations that were listed on the sink installation instructions. However, after a good amount of planning, I decided I could make it work. 

Step 2 – Unhook The Plumbing

Once you have your sink in hand and the project planned, it’s time to disconnect the plumbing. Before you disconnect anything, make sure to turn off the water supply to the faucet. Usually this can be done directly below the sink.

There should be one valve for the hot and one valve for the cold. Once the water is turned off, just start disconnecting everything. It’s a good idea to have a towel and bucket on hand to catch any water that is leftover in the lines.

Step 3 – Plan Your Cut

Since you are replacing an under-mount sink, you will have to cut through the tile to get the old sink out. So, start out by measuring the size of the cutout you will need for the new sink. Then, transfer those measurements onto the countertop where you want to make your cuts. Be sure to consider your cabinets so the sink will fit in.

Then, mark where you will cut the tile with either a pencil or with some masking tape. Watch the video above to see what I mean by this.

Step 4 – Cut the Tile to Remove the Old Sink

Using a 4″ angle grinder with a diamond blade, start cutting the tile all the way around the sink. Do this slowly so you don’t chip the tile. You may have to make several passes, but eventually you’ll get through the tile and the mortar bed.

This is a dusty process. I recommend holding a vacuum behind the grinder to catch as much dust as possible and do whatever else you can to minimize dust. Watch the video to see how I was able to keep all dust out of my kitchen.

Step 5 – Remove the Old Sink

Now that you’ve cut through the tile, you should be able to pull out the old sink. If the old sink is larger than the hole that you cut, then you’ll also need to cut through the sink as well. If you have a metal sink, you can cut through it by putting a metal blade on your angle grinder. But, hopefully you won’t have to do that. I didn’t have to in my installation.

Step 6 – Cut the Wood Around the Sink

The old sink probably rests on wood. You’ll need to cut that as well. So, take a .5″ drill bit and drill holes at each corner. Then, use a reciprocating saw to cut through the wood so you have one clean cut all the way through the tile, wood, and mortar bed.

Be careful with this saw since the vibrations can rattle surrounding tiles loose.

Step 7 – Test Fit the New Sink

Now that you’ve cut the hole, go ahead and see if the new sink fits or if you need to cut the hole bigger. If you took your time, then this is a quick and easy step.

Step 8 – Apply a Bead of Silicone

Once you’ve tested the fit of the sink, remove it again so you can apply a thick bead of silicone all the way around the rim of the sink. Then, carefully set the sink in place again. Once you’ve set the sink in place, go underneath and tighten down the sink brackets so the sink is clamped securely to the countertops.

Step 9 – Hook up the Drain and Plumbing!

Now your sink has been replaced. The next step is to simply hook up all of the plumbing. If you aren’t comfortable with this, then you should definitely get a professional plumber to help you. I’m not going to go in depth on how to do this because there are plenty of other tutorials on how to do this already.

The post How to Replace a Tiled-In Under-Mount Kitchen Sink Without Replacing Any Tile appeared first on DIY With Dan.

In this tutorial you’re going to learn how to remodel your shower from start to finish – specifically if you have an alcove bathtub and shower combo. You’ll learn how to remove your old tile and bathtub, how to install your new bathtub, how to install plumbing fixtures and a shower mixing valve, and how to tile around your tub for a professional finish.

This video will give you a great overview of the entire project and give you an idea of how long it will take to tile your shower. I highly recommend you watch the video as it is much more detailed than this article is.

This is not a beginner project. It takes a lot of time, tools, and skills to pull this project off. However, if you’re patient, have lots of time, and are willing to learn, you can do this.

Tools and Materials

There are lots of tools and materials required to complete a shower/tub remodel – too many for me to list here. However, you can view my other tutorials on remodeling a shower to get a list of materials from there.

Step #1 – Demo the old shower and bathtub.

Once you’ve planned what you’re going to do and have purchased some materials, the first step in the project is to remove the old tile and bathtub.

Grab a hammer and either a chisel or a pry bar and start removing the tiles. If you are planning to re-use the tub, you’ll want to cover it so it doesn’t get damaged. You’ll also want to remove the the drywall behind the tile so you can see the wood studs. Just make sure not to remove too much drywall or you’ll have to patch it.

Once you’ve removed the tile, you can now remove the bathtub. To get an in depth tutorial of how to do this, watch this video which goes over bathtub removal and installation.

Step #2 – Flatten the Walls

To get a professional finish, you must make sure your walls are flat and plumb. If your walls are wavy, you’ll see it in the tile and it will look bad. So, take a planer and remove any high spots on the wood studs. You may also need to shim out parts of the wall so you create nice flat surface.

Step #3 – Install New Plumbing Fixtures

Before removing the old fixtures, shutoff the water to the your house. Then you can remove the old plumbing fixtures and install the new ones without flooding your house. Pay close attention to where your new bathtub is going to sit so the plumbing fixtures are aligned with the tub. Then, hook up the new mixing valve using copper pipes and soldering the connections.

Make sure to test your fixtures before moving on.

Step #4 – Install the New Bathtub

For a complete in depth video for this process, go to this page.

Step #5 – Install your tile substrate

I recommend using Kerdi-board, but there are lots of different methods of installing tile. Whichever method you are going to use, it’s time to install the boards that the tile will sit on. I’d recommend watching the video to see how this is done.

Step #6 – Seal the Shower

It’s important to create a water tight seal on all walls of the shower and where the shower meets the tub, otherwise you’ll get leaks which will cause mold and mildew. I recommend using the Schluter tile system to seal your tub surround, but there are several ways to do this. Watch the video to see how I’ve done it.

Step #7 – Install the Tile

Now, you’re finally ready to install the tile around the tub. This is a time consuming process, so take your time especially when planning the layout of the tile. You want to avoid having any really thin pieces of tile or any awkward seems of tile. Once you’ve planned your layout, you can use a thin-set mortar to “glue” the tile to the wall. Once the mortar dries you can grout the tile and caulk all of the inside corners to keep moisture from getting behind the tile.

Step #8 – Install Plumbing Fixtures

All the hard work is done at this point, now it’s just time to install the plumbing fixtures and you’re ready to use the shower.

Optional – Seal the Grout

It’s usually a good idea to seal the grout. It will keep it from staining, make it easier to keep clean, and make the grout last longer.

Then, sit back and enjoy your new shower!

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