Here’s What I Cover…

First, I provide a quick overview of what essential components need to be included in a quality tile shower install. Then, I’ll talk about different methods for waterproofing a shower and which one I recommend using. And finally, I’ll walk you step by step through installing tile in this shower, so you can see exactly how it’s done from start to finish – with plenty of practical and useful tips along the way that will save you time and money.

Tile Shower Basic Construction and Essential Components

Let’s talk about the construction of a tile shower so you can have an understanding of what goes into this process.

In the diagram above, a cross-section of a tiled shower wall, you’ll see the tile components and how they interface with each other. First, you have the studs, which are typically spaced 16″ apart and provide the structure for the wall. Then, you have some sort of wall sheeting which can be drywall, cement board, or a tile-specific board such as Kerdi-Board by Schluter Systems. The wall sheeting will be attached to the studs with screws. Then, on top of the wall sheeting, you want to have a waterproof membrane of some kind. Next is the thinset, which is essentially a type of concrete designed to attach the tile to the wall. Finally, you have the grout between the tiles and silicon caulking between the tub and the tile. Notice that there is NO vapor barrier. A vapor barrier is not a legitimate way to waterproof and shower. And that brings up a common question which is…

What is the best way to waterproof a shower?

As you may already know, there are lots of different methods. I’m not going to get into the pros and cons of each method because that would take forever. Instead, I’m just going to tell you which one I think is best for a DIYer or pro, and that is the Kerdi system by Schluter. With this system, the waterproofing is actually built into the wallboards that you install. There are some other things you need to do to make it completely waterproof, however. So why do I think this is the best system?

• It’s lightweight and easy to cut.
• There are no fumes or strong odors to deal with.
• It’s very high quality and will last a lifetime if installed properly. In fact, Schluter even offers a lifetime warranty that covers labor and materials.
• They have many online videos and resources to answer your questions and help you do the job right.

Of course, there is one downside – it’s expensive. A typical 3 x 5” shower will cost between $500 and $600 for the Schluter system. For some people, that’s too much, and they want a cheaper option.

Now, there are other cheaper options. If you’re looking to save some money, using RedGard to seal your shower is another good option for DIYers. RedGard is a waterproof barrier that you actually paint over cement board. This will save you significant money, but there are two downsides here. The first one is that you have to work with cement board which can be heavy, awkward, and dusty to cut. The second downside is that Redgard has a very strong odor, and it has been known to bother some people who are sensitive to chemicals or have asthma. Again, I recommend the Schluter system because even though it is more expensive, it will save you a lot of time, and time is money. It’s also just going to be more enjoyable to work with and will likely lead to a higher quality installation. So, that is the method I’ll be demonstrating in the video above and in this article. However, if you decide to use Redgard or another method, most of the tile installation process that I cover will still be the same. Alright, let’s jump right into how to install a tile shower, step by step.

Installing Tile In A Shower Step By Step

Step #1 – Demo the old shower

Now before you come swinging with a sledgehammer, I recommend locating all of the studs if you can, especially on the sidewalls, which will transition from tile to drywall. By being mindful here, you can actually save yourself considerable time because you can eliminate the need for drywall repairs later. You don’t need to turn off the water to the house for this step as long as you avoid damaging the plumbing and leave the shower valve closed. Do whatever you have to do to remove the old shower while avoiding damaging anything you want to keep in the new shower installation. A pry bar and rubber mallet are nice tools to have for this. To remove the bathtub, you’ll need to remove the 2×4 stud on the side opposite of the drain so you can lift it out at an angle. Go here for full details on how to remove and replace a bathtub. The demo is a quick step and will only take a couple of hours.

Step #2 – Flatten and Plumb The Walls

For your tile shower to look good, the walls need to be flat and plumb (perfectly vertical). Otherwise, your tiles will be wavy and uneven. So the next step is to make sure the walls are flat and plumb and, if not, adjust as needed. To do this, grab a very straight board or flat edge long enough to span each wall. Then, place the flat edge against each wall horizontally to check for high or low spots in the wall. Mark a plus sign wherever there is a gap between the board and the stud so you know where you’ll need to shim the wall out. If you find a high spot sticking out past the rest of the wall, draw a minus sign indicating that you need to shave that spot down. Then get a long straight edge, ideally at least 6’ long, and do the same thing vertically, marking high and low spots. You’ll also want to take a level to the wall to make sure each wall is plumb – or perfectly vertical. If your walls are uneven or out of plumb, you will really notice it once you install the tile, especially in the corners where two walls meet. This is an important step because you’re basically setting the foundation for the tile install. Once you’ve marked the walls, it’s time to flatten them out. Use a planer to remove the high spots that you marked. Then check for flatness again and keep going until you have as close to a perfectly flat wall as you can get. You could use a belt sander here, but a planer will be about ten times as fast. Removing high spots is actually the easy part. Shimming out low spots is a little more time-consuming. If you find that a stud is sunk back into the wall, there are several ways to fix it. One way to do it is to sister another 2×4 against the stud that is sitting back to bring it out a bit. Another way is to simply add shims. The only caveat here is that you must place the shims exactly where the screws will be placed to install the Kerdi-Board – otherwise, when you screw in the Kerdi-Board, it will just bend, and your wall won’t be flat. You can figure out where the screws will go by measuring from the top of the tub and then marking every 12” from there. Take your time and get the walls as flat and plumb as your patience will allow because this will have a major impact on how professional your job looks when completed.

Step #3 – Bathtub and Plumbing Installation

Now it’s time to move onto the plumbing. Since you have the walls removed, this is the perfect time to replace old, low-quality shower valves or simply raise the height of the showerhead, so you don’t have to duck down just to get your hair wet. If you’re confident in your DIY plumbing abilities, then this is a project you can handle. If you’re not, then hiring a plumber is a good idea. This is a time-consuming process that requires a lot of careful thought to make sure everything lines up, so give it the time and attention it deserves and don’t rush. Once you’ve finished the plumbing for the shower fixtures, it’s time to install the bathtub. The key here is to make sure the bathtub is level and supported well along the entire base. Otherwise, it could crack or move around on you while you’re standing it in. Since this isn’t something you can just fix later, you’ll want to do it right the first time. For more details, watch my complete step-by-step video on how to replace a bathtub.

Step 4: Install The Wall Sheeting (Kerdi-Board)

Once the plumbing is all done, it’s time to install the wall sheeting, a product called Kerdi-Board. This will serve as both a waterproof barrier and a rigid backing for the tile to adhere to. Schluter, the manufacturer of Kerdi-Board, makes Kerdi-Board in a variety of different thicknesses anywhere from 3/16” up to 2” thick. For most tile installations, you will use the 1/2″ thick Kerdi-Board because that will match the drywall’s thickness, which is important because you are often butting it up to the drywall, and you want to avoid any steps in the wall. Some houses have drywall that is 5/8″ thick, so make sure to check the thickness of your drywall before ordering your Kerdi-Board. Installing the Kerdi-Board is actually pretty easy. You basically measure walls, cut the Kerdi-Board to size using a razor knife and a straight edge, and then screw the Kerdi-Board to the walls using the special screws and washers designed to be used with this product. You’ll want to install screws on each stud, with the screws spaced 12” apart vertically. Tighten the screws enough so that the washer begins to compress the Kerdi-Board just to the point where it is no longer sticking above the surface. I recommend starting at the bottom of the largest wall first and working upward. Then move on to the side walls. Install the Kerdi-Board on all surfaces that you plan to tile, including any windows or custom niches, and even on the side of the tub because that tends to see a lot of moisture, and you want it to be waterproof to avoid rot and mold. When installing Kerdi-Board around the bathtub, you want it to sit on top of the tub flange and not overlap it. If you try to overlap it, the wall will bow out at the bottom and look terrible. You’ll come back and seal this up later. When installing the Kerdi-Board on the shower valve wall, you first want to cut the board to fit. Then, go back and measure the location of the fixtures by measuring both from the top of the tub to the center of the fixture and the wall to the center of the fixture. Take your time here and measure carefully because this Kerdi-Board isn’t cheap. Don’t worry about making the holes perfect. We will go back and seal them up later. Now here are just a couple of tips before I move on.

• If tiling around a window or custom niche, you want to ensure that all of the surfaces around the window are perfectly level and plumb and that the cutout is perfectly square. The chances are that your windows aren’t perfect as is, so to fix this, use some thin-set (which is the same stuff you’ll use to install the tile) and use it as a leveling compound behind the Kerdi-Board.
• The ledge of the window or custom niche should be angled slightly so that when water gets on that surface, it naturally flows down into the shower instead of puddling up. This is the only exception to making everything plumb and level.
• Schluter makes pre-made custom niche cutouts. I highly recommend using those if you can because they will save you a lot of time during installation.

Step 5: Waterproofing The Shower with Kerdi-Band

Now that the Kerdi-Board has been installed, it’s time to make the shower waterproof so you can eliminate any chance of water getting behind the walls and causing rot, mold, and all that other nasty stuff that nobody wants. To do this, you’re going to use several other Schluter products that are designed to work with this system. You’ll use Kerdi-Band to seal the corners, the screws, and the joints where Kerdi-Boards meet other surfaces. You’ll use some Kerdi-Fix, a high-quality sealant, and various seals to seal around the plumbing fixtures to create a perfect, high-quality, waterproof barrier that will give you peace of mind for years to come. We’ll start with the hardest part first – which is sealing around the tub where it meets the Kerdi-Board. Start by mixing some thinset to a thin consistency. Then, cut a piece of Kerdi-Band to size to span from the corner to beyond the end of the tub. Next, apply a liberal amount of Kerdi-Fix to the tub flange. Then, apply some thinset to the Kerdi-Board using a 1/8” v-notch trowel as recommended by Schluter. Place the Kerdi-band over the seam, and then use a putty knife to flatten the Kerdi-Band and remove excess thinset and sealant. Your goal here is to create a flat waterproof surface for the tile to be installed all the way around the tub. Next, install the Kerdi-Band in the corners and where the Kerdi-Board meets the drywall. You may need to patch some drywall and let it dry before doing this. Then install the Kerdi-Band on all of the corners and edges of windows and custom niches. And finally, install the Kerdi-Band over all of the screws you used to secure the Kerdi-Board. Basically, anywhere there is a gap, seam, or hole, you’ll cover it with Kerdi-Band. You don’t need to worry about where the walls meet the ceiling unless you install a steam shower. If you are installing a steam shower, then you’ll need to waterproof the ceiling as well. To apply the Kerdi-Band, you’ll need a 1/8” v-notch trowel to apply the thinset, which you can buy directly from Schluter. And you’ll want to use a drywall taping knife to squeeze out excess thinset from behind the Kerdi-Band to keep it as flat as possible. Just don’t overwork it, or the Kerdi-Band will start to come off. Schluter also makes pieces for sealing the corners, which need to be purchased separately. Schluter also makes seals for around the shower fixtures. You’ll need three different seals for your shower. One for the tub spout, one for the valve, and one for the shower spout, which will be a different size than the tub spout. To apply these, use the same process you used for the Kerdi-Band. Apply thinset with the 1/8” v-notch trowel and then go back over it and remove excess thinset while pressing the seal against the Kerdi-Board. Then, if you have a window, you’ll want to apply some Kerdi-Fix to where the Kerdi-Board meets the window on both the sides of the window and the window sill. As you are working, make sure to remove any high spots if there are any. You want the surface to be as flat as possible and ready for tile. Wiping the entire surface down with a damp sponge is a great way to remove any bumps or chunks of thinset.

Step 6 – Planning The Tile Layout

Before you lay a single tile, it’s important to do some planning so your installation looks like a pro did it and not a complete amateur. Your goal with this step is to figure out a starting point for your tile so the install looks symmetrical and there are not skinny pieces of tile. The first thing you want to figure out is how high to start the first row of tiles so you can install a ledger board. There are two reasons you don’t want to just start on top of the tub. Number one, the top of the tub is rarely going to be perfectly flat. It’s designed so that water runs into the tub, so it usually bows in in the middle. The second reason is that you need to consider how the tile will line up with other features that are further up the wall. You want to figure out the best place to start the tile so that the tiles line up so that you don’t have to install small slivers of tile on any horizontal endpoint such as the bottom or top of the niche, the bottom, and top of the window, the tub, or the ceiling. To do that takes some measuring and, in some cases, a few calculations. The larger the tiles you are using, the easier this process is because there are fewer grout joints. When you are using small tile like subway tile, then you’ll want to be even more careful here. So, the first thing to do is draw up a diagram that has all of the measurements. Measure from the tub to every feature, and then measure each feature and its distances from the walls and mark those dimensions on your diagram. Then, measure the exact dimensions of your tile. If you’re using a small tile like I am here, then you’ll get a more accurate measurement by measuring ten or so of them and then dividing your measurement by ten. If you are using spacers for your grout joints, you will obviously want to include those as well because they will determine the stack height of your tiles which is ultimately what you are trying to figure out. The tiles I’m using have spacers built into the tile, which is why you don’t see me using spacers here. Now that you have all the measurements you need, do some calculating and planning so that you can place your tiles in a way that will avoid having small slivers of tile anywhere in the installation. Once you have figured out a good height for the ledger board, which will be used to support your first rows of tile, use a level to draw a line all the way around the shower walls where the top of the ledger board will be. Then, draw a vertical line in the center of the back wall, again using a level to make it perfectly vertical. You’ll also want to draw vertical lines where the tile will end on the side walls. These lines are important because they will guide you while installing the tile later. Take your time on this planning stage and think through the entire installation before you start laying the tile. It’s going to take some time and mental effort, but it’s going to have a big impact on the quality of your tile shower in the end.

Step 7 – Install The Ledger Board

Once you’ve planned your layout and marked the walls, it’s time to install the ledger board – which is just the board that will support the first row of tiles, so the tile doesn’t slide down the wall. Find a straight board and cut it to the size you need to install it around the tub on all walls. Then, secure it to the walls with screws at the locations of the studs. Be careful to avoid the tub flange with the screws. Don’t worry about the holes you just created. We’ll go back and seal those up with Kerdi-Fix later. The key here is to ensure your ledger board is perfectly level all the way around the tub because this will be what supports the tile.

Step 8 – Start Laying the Tile!

Now you’re finally ready to start laying down some tile! To lay the tile, you’ll need to mix up a batch of thinset, which is pretty straightforward. You just follow the directions on the back of the bag. Once you’ve mixed the thinset, apply it to the walls using a trowel. You’ll want to use the correct sized trowel for the tile you are using. The bigger the tile, the bigger the notch you want on your trowel. For subway tile, you want to use a 1/4” square notch trowel – which means there are 1/4” squares cut out of it. You’ll need a larger trowel if you are using larger tiles. Since you only have a limited time before the thinset begins to harden, you only want to spread it over a small section at a time, so it remains tacky as you cut and install the tile. When spreading the thinset, be sure to leave the guidelines uncovered, so you know where to place the tiles. If you have a laser, then you can use that instead. Once you have thinset spread on the walls, go back and run the trowel vertically so that your trowel lines are parallel to each other and go up the wall. You want these to be as consistent as possible with no bare spots to ensure proper adhesion of the tile. Once you’ve applied thinset to a section, start in the center and place each tile carefully, pressing each tile into the wall and wiggling it back a forth to ensure a consistent bond with the wall. Work your way out toward the corners where you want to leave a small gap of about 1/8” between the tile and the corner.

To cut the tiles, you can use several tools. A manual tile cutter is a great tool to have in the bathroom with you to make quick straight cuts. A wet table saw is great to make very clean, consistent cuts or cut many tiles to the same size. Here is a video that demonstrates five ways to cut tile. Continue placing the tiles until you complete the section. This is a messy process, so you’ll want to have a bucket and sponge handy to clean up the thinset as you go. Whatever you do, do NOT let the thinset dry on the surface of the tile or in the grout joints because it can ruin your install. Once you’ve completed a section, go back and make adjustments while the thinset is still wet to ensure the row of tiles at the top is still level. Small wedge spacers are great to make adjustments here, but you may use something different based on the tile you are using. Some tiles (like many subway tiles) have spacers built-in. Most tiles do not, and you will need to use tile spacers to create grout joints. Talk to your local tile shop to get the right tile spacers for your specific project. Before moving up further on the back wall, install the tile on the side walls as well. This is important because it will allow you to make small adjustments as you go to keep the grout joints lined up on all three walls.

Continue working your way up the walls, section by section. As you run into different features in your installation, you’ll need to make more intricate cuts. A hole saw with a diamond blade can be used to cut holes, and an angle grinder with a diamond blade is helpful to make intricate or curved cuts. Be extra careful when working around windows or custom niches. These features can be very time-consuming because they require a lot of detailed cuts. Work your way all the way up the walls until you reach your stopping point. Once the thinset has hardened on the first section of tile, you can remove the ledger board. Use some Kerdi-Fix to seal up the holes that were created when attaching the ledger board. When tiling around the tub, you want to leave a 1/8” to 3/16” gap between the tile and tub. The gap will be filled in with silicone later. And by the way, you also want to leave about a 1/8” gap between the tiles in the corners. Installing the tile will probably take longer than you expect, but if you take your time and don’t rush things, you will end up with a better tile installation than most pros.

Step #9 – Grout The Tiles

Once you’re done with the tile, wait at least 24 hours for the thinset to cure, and then it’s time to apply the grout. At this point, most of the hard work is over, and you’re almost done. To get started with the grout, mix a small batch of whichever grout you have chosen for your tile project, following the directions that came with the grout. To apply the grout, you’ll need a float, a bucket with clean water, and a brand new sponge. Wipe the grout on the walls with the float and push the grout into the joints to fill them up completely. Then, go back and wipe off the excess grout with the float and come back with a damp sponge to clean up the grout joints. Do this in sections just like you did the tile, so the grout doesn’t harden on you before you have a chance to clean it off with a sponge. Try to avoid getting grout in the corners and between the tile and the tub. These joints will need to be caulked later.

Step #10 – Caulking The Shower

Once you’re finished grouting, it’s time to caulk the shower. You’ll need three different types of caulking. First, one that is the same color as the grout (which will be made by the same company that made the grout you are using). The second one will be a white silicone that matches the tub for caulking around the tub. And the third is a clear silicone for caulking around the shower fixtures. Caulk all of the inside corners of the tile with the colored caulking. You can also caulk between the ceiling and the tile with the colored caulking as well since that doesn’t need to be waterproof up there. Then, caulk around the tub with the white silicone. Take your time with this because it will make a big difference in how good your install looks.

Step #11 – Seal the Grout

And finally, the very last step is to seal the grout with a penetrating grout sealer. This is an easy step that will help your grout last longer. Pick up a penetrating sealer such as Sealer’s Choice Gold and either spray it on the walls or use a sponge brush to apply it. Then install the plumbing fixtures, and you’re all done!

Some Last Thoughts

As you can see, there are many steps involved with a proper tile shower installation, and this is a more advanced DIY project that will use a variety of skills and probably even require you to learn new skills. However, by taking your time and doing it right, you can save a lot of money on labor, and you can experience a feeling of achievement. If you’re relatively new to tile, expect this process to take a couple of weeks once you have all the materials ready. Maybe you will get it done sooner, but I wouldn’t recommend overwhelming yourself by trying to do this all in a single weekend.

The post How to Tile Shower & Bathtub Walls – The Ultimate Guide appeared first on DIY With Dan.

If you’re about to tackle your first DIY tile project, then you’re probably wondering what tools you’ll actually need for the job.

In this article (and the video above), I’m going to talk about five different ways to cut tile so you will quickly learn which tools you actually need and which tools you can forget about.

Whether you are cutting ceramic tile, porcelain tile, glass tile, glass mosaic tile, or even natural stone, I’ll show you exactly which tile cutting tools and methods you’ll want to use (and which ones are a waste of time and money).

Let’s get started…

Tile Cutting Method #1 – Manual Tile Cutters

The first tool I want to mention is the manual tile cutter. This is a very common tile cutting tool and can be used on ceramic, porcelain, glass, and terra cotta tiles.

It basically scores the tile with a small carbine blade and then snaps the tile as demonstrated in the video at the bottom of this article.

This method of cutting tile is fast, easy, and doesn’t create any dust. It’s also an inexpensive tool to buy. The one in the image above cost just $50 and is perfect for ceramic tile up to 24″. However, larger tiles or harder tiles like porcelain will require a heavy duty version.

Porcelain is much harder than ceramic and requires a more robust tile cutter. If you are cutting porcelain and plan to buy or rent one of these tools, then make sure it is rated for cutting porcelain tile.

The manual tile cutter will also work on mosaic and glass mosaic tiles.

The tile cutting method will not work for most natural stone tile, however.

Tile Cutting Method #2 – Wet Table Saw

Wet table saws are staple tile cutting tools. They can cut any kind of tile and they cut a very smooth and straight edge. This is an essential tool for cutting natural stone tile and it will work with pretty much any type of tile except for glass tile.

If you’re doing a ceramic tile project, then this tool isn’t 100% necessary, but it will save you a lot of time and give you cleaner cuts. And, if you are cutting a lot of tiles to the same exact size (like when installing subway tile) this tools can save even more time.

This tool uses a diamond blade circular saw to cut the tile and pumps water onto the blade to eliminate all dust and keep the blade cool. Wet table saws come in variety of different sizes so the bigger the tile you are cutting, the bigger the wet table saw you will want to get.

A small wet table saw like you see above can be rented for about $200 per week and is a worthy investment for the DIY tiler.

Tile Cutting Method #3 – Handheld Manual Tile Cutter

The handheld manual tile cutter scores and snaps the tile just like the manual tile cutter I talked about above. However, it’s much smaller and fits in your hand.

If you look around online, you’ll see all kinds of videos of people using these and claiming how awesome and easy they are to use. However, I found this tool almost useless. That’s because you have to push hard to score the tile which makes it very difficult to cut a straight line. It’s also hard to follow a guide while cutting.

This thing can cut ceramic tile pretty well, but not straight or accurately.

So, do not waste your time or money on one of these tools.

Tile Cutting Method #4 – Angle Grinder With a Diamond Blade

The angle grinder with the diamond blade is such a useful tool. I’ve found thousands of uses for it as a pro handyman. And, it can also be used to cut any kind of tile (everything except glass).

It’s great for making small detailed cuts and circular cuts in tile. However, it does have downsides. It creates a lot of dust and it doesn’t cut a very smooth edge.

This is certainly not an essential tile cutting tools for most projects, but it does make those curved and detailed cuts much easier. But, since this tool is so useful for so many other things, I highly recommend you get one anyway. You can pick up a corded one for $30 and you’ll find dozens of uses for it down the road.

Tile Cutting Method #5 – Diamond Hole Saw

A hole saw with a diamond coating on the edge is great for cutting small holes in almost every type of tile and even granite or cement. Sometime you will have a pipe coming out of the wall right in the middle of where you want to put a tile. Without a hole saw like this those cuts can be very difficult.

These hole saws will cut through ceramic like butter in a matter of a few seconds. However, when cutting harder materials like porcelain or granite, then you’ll want put some water on it while you are cutting to keep the blade cool and to cut faster.

To use one of these, just hook it up to your power drill, put it down where you want to cut your hole and squeeze the trigger. It can be challenging to get the hole started, but once you do it is an easy tool to use.

Tile Cutting Tools By Project

Depending on the type of tile you are cutting, you will need different tools. So, here is a breakdown of the tools you want for each type of tile.

Cutting Ceramic Tile

When cutting ceramic tile you will want a wet table saw, a manual tile utter, a diamond hole saw, and an angle grinder.

You could technically get away with just a manual tile cutter and an angle grinder if you wanted to keep it minimalist. But, the wet table saw wills save you a lot of time and give you cleaner cuts.

Cutting Porcelain Tile

When cutting porcelain tile, use the same tools as you would when cutting ceramic tile except go for a heavier duty manual tile cutter. Depending on the job you are tackling, you may also want to consider a hand held wet table saw, especially if there are a lot of detail cuts.

Cutting Natural Stone Tile

Most natural stone will require a wet saw to cut well. While you can cut this with just an angle grinder, you’ll want to make the majority of your cuts with a wet saw of some kind. A wet table saw is essential here since you can’t score and snap natural stone. It just doesn’t break cleanly enough.

Cutting Glass Tile

Whether you are cutting glass mosaics or glass tile, you’ll always want to score it and snap it. Trying to cut glass with any type of saw will result in lots of chipping and a very rough edge.

Enjoy the video below which demonstrates all five cutting methods as well as provides a lot of extra tips not shared in this article.

The post How to Cut Tile – Tools, Methods, and When to Use Them appeared first on DIY With Dan.

In the video above and the step-by-step article below, you’re going to learn everything you need to know about mixing thinset mortar for tile, from how to mix small batches to how to mix thinset for wall tile. I’ll also mention how much to mix on your first batch.

First, we’ll start with a list of tools and then on to the step-by-step instructions.

Tools and Supplies:

• Five-gallon buckets (x3)
• 1-3 quart plastic measuring containers (x2)
• Mixing Paddle
• Power Drill or Mixer
• Gloves
• Safety Glasses
• Dust Respirator
• Digital Scale (optional)

Step 1: Add Water To the Mixing Bucket

Always add the water before the thinset. Read the back of the thinset bag to see how much water you need for the entire bag. Then, figure out how much thin-set to mix, so you have enough for about twenty square feet of tile to start with for your first time.

The thinset I’m using in the video above said to use 5.5-6.5 quarts of water for the entire 50 lb bag. But that’s way too much thin-set to use at once, so I decided to start with 1 quart of water (about one-fifth of the bag), which is an easily manageable amount.

You never want to mix an entire bag on your first time because the thinset will likely harden before you have time to put it all on. So, start with enough thinset to cover about 20 sq. feet, then adjust from there on your next batch. Usually, it will say on the back of the thinset bag how much sq. footage it will cover given different trowel sizes, so you can calculate how much based on that.

Step 2: Add Thinset And Mix To Desired Consistency

There are two ways to do this. You can measure it out perfectly and even get out a scale to weigh out the perfect amount of thinset to water. This is great because it’s accurate and isn’t prone to user error. But, it requires you to have a scale laying around and do some math to figure out how many pounds of thinset per quart of water.

The second way is to add thinset and mix until you reach the desired consistency (similar to peanut butter). It doesn’t have to be perfect. If it’s a little runny, it will still work. If it’s a little thicker, it can still work as well. You’ll know that it’s too runny if it won’t hold a notch when you trowel it on the wall or floor, and you’ll know it’s too thick if it doesn’t easily stick to the substrate you’re applying it to.

Step 3: Continue Mixing For Time Specified On The Bag

Every thinset is slightly different, so you’ll want to follow the directions on your bag of thinset. Usually, it will tell you to mix for about 2-3 minutes using a power mixer at a slow rpm. If you don’t have a mixer, you can also use a power drill, but you will not want to do this by hand.

A power mixer is a great tool to have here, but it’s not necessary. You can also use a power drill, although this is hard on drills. Just make sure to set your drill to the slower setting, so you don’t mix too fast. If you’re using a variable speed drill with only one setting, then you’ll have to hold the trigger halfway to avoid spinning too fast.

Step 4: Let it Slake for 10 Minutes

Basically, you will leave it alone for about ten minutes so the water can start combining with the thinset and the chemical reactions can start taking place.

I would avoid letting it sit in the sun, though, unless you want the thinset to harden faster than normal and don’t need as much working time to apply it.

Step 5: Mix again for 2-5 Minutes

After the thinset has completed slaking, it will probably thicken up just a bit, but it will thin back up to a workable consistency once you start mixing.

NEVER add water after the slaking period. It can weaken the thinset mortar, so it isn’t as strong once cured. That’s obviously not good because you want your tile to last a long time and be durable. Make sure to dial in the right consistency during the first mixing stage.

Step 6: Application

Now you’re ready to use a trowel to apply the thinset. The working time before it hardens varies depending on a few things. The first is the temperature. The hotter the temperature, the faster the thinset will “set.” Cooler temperatures could easily double working time when compared to hot weather. Also, the amount of thinset you have mixed seems to change the rate that it sets. Smaller amounts tend to set faster because more of it is exposed to direct air relative to the total mass of the thinset. Larger batches will set slightly slower, but I’d still recommend starting with smaller batches until you get the hang of things.

You can increase the working time by remixing the thinset a couple of times while applying it. But this will only get you so far, and you’ll start to notice thinset hardening on your tools. That’s when you’ll want to clean your tools and whip up a new batch.

Obviously, avoid wasting thinset if you can, but understand that some waste is normal during this learning process. As you work with it more, you’ll get faster and more efficient while mixing and applying thinset. 

If you found this helpful, you’ll also enjoy How to tile shower and bathtub walls – The ultimate guide.

The post How To Mix Thinset For Tile in Small Batches to the Perfect Consistency appeared first on DIY With Dan.

In this tutorial you’re going to learn how to remodel your shower from start to finish – specifically if you have an alcove bathtub and shower combo. You’ll learn how to remove your old tile and bathtub, how to install your new bathtub, how to install plumbing fixtures and a shower mixing valve, and how to tile around your tub for a professional finish.

This video will give you a great overview of the entire project and give you an idea of how long it will take to tile your shower. I highly recommend you watch the video as it is much more detailed than this article is.

This is not a beginner project. It takes a lot of time, tools, and skills to pull this project off. However, if you’re patient, have lots of time, and are willing to learn, you can do this.

Tools and Materials

There are lots of tools and materials required to complete a shower/tub remodel – too many for me to list here. However, you can view my other tutorials on remodeling a shower to get a list of materials from there.

Step #1 – Demo the old shower and bathtub.

Once you’ve planned what you’re going to do and have purchased some materials, the first step in the project is to remove the old tile and bathtub.

Grab a hammer and either a chisel or a pry bar and start removing the tiles. If you are planning to re-use the tub, you’ll want to cover it so it doesn’t get damaged. You’ll also want to remove the the drywall behind the tile so you can see the wood studs. Just make sure not to remove too much drywall or you’ll have to patch it.

Once you’ve removed the tile, you can now remove the bathtub. To get an in depth tutorial of how to do this, watch this video which goes over bathtub removal and installation.

Step #2 – Flatten the Walls

To get a professional finish, you must make sure your walls are flat and plumb. If your walls are wavy, you’ll see it in the tile and it will look bad. So, take a planer and remove any high spots on the wood studs. You may also need to shim out parts of the wall so you create nice flat surface.

Step #3 – Install New Plumbing Fixtures

Before removing the old fixtures, shutoff the water to the your house. Then you can remove the old plumbing fixtures and install the new ones without flooding your house. Pay close attention to where your new bathtub is going to sit so the plumbing fixtures are aligned with the tub. Then, hook up the new mixing valve using copper pipes and soldering the connections.

Make sure to test your fixtures before moving on.

Step #4 – Install the New Bathtub

For a complete in depth video for this process, go to this page.

Step #5 – Install your tile substrate

I recommend using Kerdi-board, but there are lots of different methods of installing tile. Whichever method you are going to use, it’s time to install the boards that the tile will sit on. I’d recommend watching the video to see how this is done.

Step #6 – Seal the Shower

It’s important to create a water tight seal on all walls of the shower and where the shower meets the tub, otherwise you’ll get leaks which will cause mold and mildew. I recommend using the Schluter tile system to seal your tub surround, but there are several ways to do this. Watch the video to see how I’ve done it.

Step #7 – Install the Tile

Now, you’re finally ready to install the tile around the tub. This is a time consuming process, so take your time especially when planning the layout of the tile. You want to avoid having any really thin pieces of tile or any awkward seems of tile. Once you’ve planned your layout, you can use a thin-set mortar to “glue” the tile to the wall. Once the mortar dries you can grout the tile and caulk all of the inside corners to keep moisture from getting behind the tile.

Step #8 – Install Plumbing Fixtures

All the hard work is done at this point, now it’s just time to install the plumbing fixtures and you’re ready to use the shower.

Optional – Seal the Grout

It’s usually a good idea to seal the grout. It will keep it from staining, make it easier to keep clean, and make the grout last longer.

Then, sit back and enjoy your new shower!

The post How to Remodel A Tile Shower appeared first on DIY With Dan.

In this tutorial, you’re going to learn how to replace the bathtub in your bathroom step by step.

You’ll learn how to remove your old alcove bathtub, how to choose a new bathtub, and how to hook up the plumbing and install your new bathtub WITHOUT having to access the plumbing from underneath.

The links below are affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you click on them and buy (which I really appreciate). This does not cost you anything additional and it allows me to put out more free information like this.

Materials Required:

• Bathtub (I used the Delta Classic 400 Tub in White)
• Bathtub Drain Assembly
• ABS Glue
• Additional ABS plumbing fittings to attach to house plumbing
• Floor Leveling Compound
• DAP Kitchen, Bath, and Plumbing Silicone Sealant
• 1 5/8″ Pan Head screws
• Shims

Tools Required

• Tub Drain Remover
• Level
• 12″ Finishing Trowel
• Cordless Drill
• Caulking Gun
• Saw (Hacksaw, miter saw, or circular saw)
• Reciprocating Saw
• Drill Bits

Step #1 – Removing Your Existing Bathtub

To remove your existing bathtub, you’ll first want to remove the tub surround or the tile around the bathtub. Without doing this, you won’t be able to pull the old tub out or install the new tub.

Once the entire tub is exposed, you’ll probably find some nails or screws securing the tub to the wall. Remove those.

Now it’s time to disconnect the plumbing. Start by removing the drain stop by simply unscrewing it. Then, take a tub drain remover, insert it into the drain, and twist it out counter-clockwise. You may need to insert a screwdriver for more leverage. Then, take a screwdriver and remove the cover plate from the overflow drain.

You’re not quite ready to remove the tub yet, however. First, you’ll need to remove the 2×4 stud on the side of the tub opposite of the drain that the side tub flange was attached to (see the video for more detail). Then, you can lift out the tub by lifting the side opposite of the drain and then pulling the tub out at an angle.

Step #2 – Prep For the New Tub

Bathtubs need to be installed so they have solid, consistent support, and they need to be level.

If you’re installing a new acrylic or fiberglass tub, it probably has a plastic base used to support the base of the tub. If so, then you’ll need to make sure your floor is flat and level – otherwise, your tub will drain improperly, or it could creak and crack when you step in it. Use a floor leveling compound such as the one listed above in the materials list to level the floor.

If you’re installing a cast iron tub, then you don’t have to worry about leveling the floor because you’ll be pouring a bed of mortar to set the tub in. However, you will want to screw some 2×4’s to the wall to support the tub’s rim if you’re using a bed of mortar.

Also, make sure the drain cutout on the floor is the appropriate size for your tub according to the specifications that came with your new tub.

Step #3 – Assemble the Bathtub Drain Assembly

This is the fun part, especially if you liked building legos or models when you were a kid.

Lay the bathtub on its side so you can easily access the drain holes from underneath and from the top.

Then, take a drain assembly (sold in kits) and start by attaching the drain and the overflow drain to the bathtub. When connecting the drain, the rubber gasket goes between the drain elbow and the bathtub – not on top of the bathtub.

Now that the drains are connected to the tub, cut the ABS pipes to the correct length and glue the drain assembly together using ABS glue. Make sure the connections are in the right direction so the water can drain properly.

Now, remove the finished drain assembly from the bathtub.

Step #4 – Connect the Drain Assembly To the House Plumbing

The key here is to get the drain assembly to line up where the bathtub will be before permanently installing the bathtub. To do that, you’ll need to set the tub in place, mark where the drain is on the floor or on a temporary piece of wood, and measure the distance between the floor and the bottom of the drain. Basically, you need to know the exact location of the drain after the final installation.

I demonstrate how to do this in the video at the top of this page. It needs to line up perfectly. Otherwise, it will be impossible to make a water-tight connection.

However, if you have easy access underneath the bathtub, it may be easier to first connect the drain assembly to the tub, install the tub, and connect the plumbing to the house as a final step.

Step #5 – Set the Bathtub

Now that the drain assembly is in place, apply silicone to both sides of each drain gasket. Then, slowly lower the bathtub into place, being careful not to smear the silicone sealant.

Then, put another large bead of silicone on the underside of the drain flange and then screw in the drain to the threaded elbow. Then put on the cover plate for the overflow drain. Wipe away any excess silicone before moving on.

Step #6 – Secure the Bathtub

Now that the tub is in place, re-install the 2×4 stud that you removed earlier to remove the old tub. Then, using 1 5/8″ lathe screws, secure the bathtub to the stud – one screw at each stud location and 2 -3 on the side tub flanges.

You’ll want to pre-drill the screw holes in the tub using a 3/16″ drill bit before screwing in the tub. And, make sure to use wood shims between the tub and the wall wherever there is a gap to avoid snapping the tub flange.

Step #7 – Test for leaks

Before installing tile or any finish material around the tub, you’ll want to make sure it isn’t leaking. So, wait about 24hrs for the silicone sealant to set, then fill the tub with water and listen carefully for leaks. If there is a leak, you’ll probably hear a faint dripping sound. If there is a floor below the bathtub, go there and listen for leaks and observe the ceiling for signs of water.

Step #8 – Caulk the Front Edge of the Tub

If there are no leaks, you’re almost done. Now, using a silicone sealant that matches the color of your tub, caulk the front edge of the bathtub where it meets the ground. This is to keep water that drips over the front edge of the tub from getting underneath the bathtub and causing mold growth.

And that’s it!

The post Step by Step Guide to Removing, Replacing, and Installing A Bathtub appeared first on DIY With Dan.

In this article, you’re going to learn how to install marble countertops in your bathroom. This same process will also work for Granite countertops as well.

Marble countertops are actually pretty easy to install when compared to other high-quality countertop options. Tile countertops are far more difficult and time-consuming to install, harder to clean, and usually don’t look as good.

But, marble countertops look amazing, can be installed with basic tools, and are surprisingly affordable if you install them yourself.

The key is to find pre-fabricated marble countertops, which are found at most tile and stone stores. The cost for a pref-fabbed slab will typically range from $200 (if it has defects) to $500 if it’s in perfect condition. Of course, it can get more expensive than that.

So, without further ado, here’s how to install marble countertops in your bathroom, step-by-step.

Step #1 – Remove The Existing Countertops

This is obvious, but it is the first step. Just be careful when removing the backsplashes, otherwise you’ll have to do some drywall repairs as well.

Step #2 – Ensure the Cabinets are Level and Flat

Stone countertops are extremely rigid and have very little flex. They need to be supported evenly. If your cabinets aren’t flat, the countertops may crack or break once installed.

So, take a level and make sure your cabinets are flat and level. If they aren’t, they can be shimmed later. However, if the cabinets are way out of whack. like mine were in the video above, then your better off just re-installing them completely.

Step #3 – Measure the Cabinets

Measure from the wall to the edge of the cabinets in multiple spots for both the width and length of the countertops. Pay attention to any wavy walls, or out of square walls because they will effect the installation. Very rarely will you find walls perfectly square and straight.

If you have the proper materials, you can also just create a template by hot-glueing strips of vinyl to conform to the walls so you can get a perfect shape for your countertops.

Step #4 – Cut a Wood Template Out of 5/8″ Plywood and Test Fit

If you’re using 2cm thick stone (most common), then you must install some plywood for support. 3cm stone installations can skip this step.

Use the measurements from step 3 to cut the template out of the plywood. You’ll also want to cut the sink hole from the plywood as well to test fit the location of the sink. Just make sure you make room for any backsplashes you’ll be installing later.

Test fit the wood template and make sure it fits. The wood template should go from the wall to the edge of the countertop.

Step #5 – Use the Wood template to mark the countertops for cutting

Lay the wood template on top of the stone countertops to mark where you want to cut the marble or granite. Since you’ve already test fit the wood template, you know that it will fit. So, simply cut the stone countertops to the same size.

However, be sure to pay attention to the pre-fabricated edge of the stone as this will need to hang over the cabinets and the plywood. So, your countertops will actually be bigger than the countertops. Watch the video about for a visual.

Step #6 – Cut the Marble or Stone Countertops Using a Diamond Blade

The best blade to use is a Turbo Diamond Blade, and ideally you’ll put water on it while cutting to eliminate dust and keep the blade cool. However, this isn’t necessary.

I recommend using a 7″ blade on a circular saw to make the cutting go easier, because it does take time. An angle grinder will work as well, it will just take more time and effort.

You’ll also want to cut the sink hole out before installing the countertops, so use the template to mark the sink hole location and carefully cut it out.

Step #7 – Screw the Plywood Template to the Countertops

Using 1 5/8″ wood screws, attach the plywood template to the top of the cabinets. If your cabinets aren’t perfectly level and flat, place shims underneath the plywood to even it out. You may have to remove the cabinet drawers to install the shims. Also, it’s a good idea to pre-drill holes in the cabinets so you don’t end up splitting the cabinet wood while installing a screw.

Step #8 – Dryfit the Stone Countertops

Now it’s time to test fit the granite or marble tops to see if they fit. When you carry the stone countertops, always keep them vertical. If you carry them horizontally they could snap.

To test the fit, place the back of the countertops in first, holding them vertically, and then slowly lower down the front until they make contact with the cabinets. You may need to shave some stone off here and there to get them to fit.

Step #9 – Glue the Stone Countertops Down

Once you’ve successfully dry-fitted the countertops, it’s time to make the install permanent. Remove the countertops, then generously apply some silicone to the entire surface of the plywood. This silicone will act as an adhesive and a cushion for the stone countertops.

Then, put the countertops back into place and you’re all set!

Step #10 – Install the Backsplash

You can either use tile for the backsplash, or a pre-fabricated backsplash that usually comes with the countertops. If you use the stone backsplash, just use an adhesive that will attach to the walls and the stone. If you use tile, a polymer modified thin-set mortar is the best way to attach tile.

Step #11 – Install the Sink

If you’re using a porcelain sink, all you need to do is glue the sink down with some 100% silicone caulking. If you’re using  a metal sink, then you’ll want to use brackets to hold the sink in place.

And that’s it!

The post How To Install Marble Countertops In a Bathroom – Step-By-Step appeared first on DIY With Dan.